This question did not generate much response on the iBoblist, and perhaps
the RBW-listers will be more forthcoming.

My question put simply is this: Will my "non-tubeless-but-adapted-(with
multiple wraps of Stan's tape)-rims* work well enough in the long term for
a tubeless (Naches Pass) setup, or is it worth paying a few hundred to buy
some 26" Stan's 355 rims and have the wheels rebuilt. Note that in my
fretful anxiety I always stock up on at least an extra pair of rims for any
given wheelset. (I know that you blithely don't fret like that, but I do,
so include this in the cost.)

Background: After a couple of false starts, the multiple wraps of Stan's
tape on my non-tubeless Sun Ringle EQ 21 rims seem to be keeping the
tubeless Naches Pass tires in place well enough, by the crucial test: *do
the beads stay in place when you let out the air.* And other experienced
riders have said that their similar setups (non-tubeless rims, tubeless tires,
lots of rim tape) work just fine on the long term.

I've heard from riders experienced with "adapted" tube rims that enough
Stan's tape will keep you securely and happily riding tubeless into your
declining years. Others opine that you are just waiting for a burp.

I've got a lifetime's stash of EQ 21s with which the NP wheelset is built,
so the cost of a "yes" answer is probably about $600. I don't build my own
wheels, more's the pity, and one day I might, but for now, include the cost
of building 2 wheels. (I have built 1 ss speed 36 hole wheel which was
trouble free for 1,000s of miles, but I don't have the patience to do it
regularly.)

So ...? Whatddya think?

Moreover: I've read about the apparently currently available
tubeless-designed Velocity A23s and the Stan's 355s, both claimed sub 400
grams and 24 mm exterior width. I've also heard that the brake tracks on
the A23s are too short -- or something that makes them troublesome.
Opinions about either rim? Are there other 26" rim brake tubeless rims on
the market besides the Velocity's and the Stans's?

Thanks.

Patrick Moore, who is gonna real soon test a 1" lighweight tube with lots
and lots of OS regular in a 42 mm Naches Pass tire against thorn punctures.
(Will report. Think it might work with at least 3, perhaps even 4 fl oz of
OS regular. I am tube-tire-width-alignment-skeptical.)

PS: For years I asserted that OS does not work in tubed tires at pressures
much under 50 psi; let's say 40 psi is the cutoff. But! The reason may have
been my stinginess with sealant; I generally have been successful against
goatheads with 2 fl oz of OS Endurance in 700X70 mm tubeless tires.

But! I had problems adapting non-tubeless Alex rims to tubeless WTB Rangers
-- the beads would not stay put -- even when I wearily tried, failed,
disassembled, and added serially more layers yet of Stan's tape -- so I
gave up and installed a tube in the rear, where a hole would not seal. I
glugged in full 4 fl oz of OS regular. Lo and behold, in this annus
terribilis year of bountiful goatheads, no rear flat yet after some months.
(The front tire remains tubeless and the bead remains docile, for some
reason.)

I was encouraged by this by a bike shop clerk who told me that Stan's or OS
in his sub 15 psi Fat Bike tubes has worked fine for years.

There you go.

* Someone complained about my header using the standard term, "Ghetto
tubeless," on the iBoblist. My reactive feelings were mixed. OTOH, chill.
OTOH, I do think it a silly term. I weighed both thoughts in the balance
and decided to forego the term. What do you (pl) think? For the record, I
am a half breed or mestizo of fully 2 colors who grew up among brown and
black folk and married a yellow wife.


-- 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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