I have found that you really have to pay attention to the headset
stack height. On an older Bridgestone T700 I have, I luckily bought a
lower stack height headset and even then I could only get the top nut
to thread about 3-4 threads. I had to find a thinner cable guide to
even get that much engagement. I've seen a variance of up to 7 or 8 mm
on threaded headsets stack height.

~Mike~

On May 9, 10:40 pm, CycloFiend <cyclofi...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> on 5/8/10 8:10 PM, Horace at max...@sdf.lonestar.org replied to:
>
> >> I was looking at this picture of a large custom Rivendell with a tall
> >> headset:
>
> >>http://tinyurl.com/23rzeqm
> with
> > There is no choice. If you have a tall steerer tube, you need the spacers. 
> > If
> > you want less height, you have to cut the steerer and use fewer spacers.
>
> There's actually a little more to it than that - This idea of using spacers
> on a threaded fork steerer cropped up in a Reader some time back - I think
> it was a Mark hack.  (And I'm sure others have done it before, but this was
> the first time I saw it specifically outlined in print. Certainly, using a
> couple short spacers had been SOP.)
>
> Since the fork is threaded, you are really changing the stack height of the
> headset. Before you shorten the extension of the steerer tube, you want make
> sure that the threading goes far enough down so you can tighten the top nut,
> or plan on having the steerer threaded after cutting it.
>
> The taller steerer tubes combined with the spacers probably allow a single
> fork to be used on more than one frame.  When the fashion was to keep the
> steerer tube cut to the miminim amount necessary to poke through the headube
> of the frame, you pretty much had to have a fork matched to each size.
>
> - Jim
>
> --
> Jim Edgar
> cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
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