What fun overnight adventure. 
Thanks for the engrossing write up!
k.

On Nov 18, 2022, at 7:11 AM, Eric Marth <ericma...@gmail.com> wrote:

Thank you all for the nice comments and for reading along. 

Dave — That was the most weight I've had in the front bag for anything more than a quick ride home from the co-op. It did effect the handling but I got used to it pretty quickly. There were a few times while climbing when I was trying to maneuver around a rock in the road and ended up kinda tipping over, no big deal. 

I'm eager to revise my packing to get the weight way down. I've attached a packing list that's accurate to the best of my memory. It's a lot. I'd also love to go rackless. I tried to mount the Chest from my saddle but couldn't get it all worked out. I've had parts laying around for a bootlegged Pec Deck for some time. 

Randy — It was certainly different than my last trip out of town with a fancy hotel stay for a wedding and paid for by my in-laws! 

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 9:05:11 AM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
Intoxicating read! Now I have the “itch” real bad.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 17, 2022, at 8:22 PM, Eric Marth <eric...@gmail.com> wrote:

Ride Report: Hawksbill Slope Cabin Overnighter


14-15 November 2022
64 miles, 7,250 ft elevation

05 Skyline 2 SM.jpg

This summer and early fall passed without any camping or overnight trips by bicycle. So a series of rides and ideas came together and I booked a primitive cabin for Monday night, earlier this week. I decided to make a loop of some fire roads I checked out in September with a stop for the night in the middle. Once I made the reservation I reached out to Paul R. to see if he’d like to join. To my surprise he was game for a Monday night out.

Temperatures Monday were predicted to peak in the high 40s and dip down well below freezing up on the mountain where we’d be staying. Rain and snow were in the cards for our return on Tuesday and warming up to 38º. With bad weather and short days in mind we met at the cracking hour of 11:00 AM. We would have preferred to start earlier but obligations sometimes call for a late start or no start at all. I unloaded my Appaloosa and did a final check of my luggage and gear. Paul arrived with his XL Susie Longbolts shoved in the back seat of his Honda. Even with the front wheel removed the wheelbase barely allowed the back doors to close. By 11:50 we were on our way, with temperatures comfortably in the high 40s.

02 Syria SM.jpg

The first eight miles took us through beautiful rolling countryside with cattle grazing, old brick houses on hills and the last rusty brown vestiges of crumbling foliage. We were on a mix of pavement and well-maintained gravel roads. The route took us through a neighborhood of small beautiful farms on a road that runs parallel to a stream. The road continued on in a way that felt like trespassing as we rode between barns, over corn and soy fields, past a tractor shed and through fields cut for hay.

Next we turned onto a painted highway with a posted speed of 45mph and rode along for about two miles. During our first day this was our only stretch of riding with paint on the road. We skirted around a mountain and had our first fun and short descent on a twisty paved road. We pulled into a neighborhood of old apple-packing warehouses and a convenience store with a deli, likely a good place to stop, according to Paul who ran inside. Bulk candy, camping goods, deli sandwiches and the rest. We surveyed a few bins full of local apples that were stationed out on the road. I found my local favorite, the Black Twig and we got four apples for $2. They were fantastically good.

03 Road SM.jpg

We enjoyed some more lovely country riding before starting on a long climb that took our elevation from 600 feet to 3,500 feet over 18 miles without interruption.

The way up is via a wooded fire and maintenance road that is at times quite rocky but easily passible by bike… if your legs are up for it. You would need a serious 4x4 vehicle with clearance to make it up these roads and the few campers and people out fishing were in one-ton trucks. There are a few steep, rocky, loose descents on the way up, short reprieves from long and steady climbing. According to my GPS we climbed for three hours. We took one snack break early on and had a few quick stops but for the most part we were grinding away. Paul longed for a bag of potato chips, craving salt and tired of all the chewing required of his nutty trail mix.

I don’t have many pictures from this section as I was very focussed on trying to make it to the cabin before dark. The early sunset and our vital camp chores were top of mind. Once we arrived we needed to gather firewood and water. Without electricity or plumbing we were reliant on the woodstove for heat and the spring for hydration. Stumbling around in steep and unfamiliar terrain searching for wood and water was something I hoped to avoid.

As we were passing a gate with signs that announced bicycles were prohibited we encountered a traveller on a flat bar mountain bike with disks. We had a short chat about where he was headed and I gave him the best directions I could. When I asked how much further we had to the top he said it was “a few miles.” Later on I realized he was tempering our distance and trying to be encouraging. The spinning continued.

Once we were within five miles of the top Paul said something like “It’s gotta end, soon! It’s can’t all be up!” We finally reached the top of our climb and made it out to the national parkway that cuts along the mountain. I had mentioned to Paul there was a combination restaurant/convenience store/gas station where he could grab a snack. Once we were within eye shot he sprinted to the building only to find it was closed for the season.

The golden last light fell on the road with my shadow attenuating to nearly twenty feet. With a swift and steep descent ahead I pulled my massive goose down jacket from my front bag and zipped it on. Paul donned a down vest and we both switched to warmer gloves.

We were three miles from our cabin but I had improvised our way to get there attempting to take a short fire and maintenance road instead of part of the Appalachian Trail. I assumed it would be easier to get the bikes down a road than a trail. The sparsely-used trail was ungroomed, covered with sticks and bumpy but ride-able. We reached the AT and had a moment of map and GPS confusion trying to determine which way to go. I found a concrete trail marker that pointed us to the cabin.

After a short and rocky descent on the trail (partly ride-able) we arrived at the cabin and to a spectacular, unexpected view of the Massanutten Range with beautiful bands of color across the ridge right at the edge of dark. It was a stunning view from the front of the cabin, with a clearing through the trees and into the valley town beyond.

06 Cabin SM.jpg

We had made it but it was getting dark. I rode up wearing one merino baselayer and a wool sweater (all of it 100% wool) with wool cycling shorts. I was quite wet with my own sweat. I was worried about getting enough wood gathered to get warm and stay warm. With our headlamps we started collecting branches, sticks and twigs. Paul dragged a few large fallen limbs up to the cabin and began sawing them into stove-sized chunks. A lot of the area had been picked through by previous visitors and, of course, all the best wood was down a very steep, very rocky ravine. But there was no shortage of the stuff, to my relief.

07 Ridge SM.jpg

I found a swiftly running spring and filled an 8L sack. I couldn’t resist kneeling down and having a sip. It was delicious. I have no experience with drinking from springs and wild water but can’t recommend it, I don’t know how safe or unsafe it really is. I attached a water filter to the bag and we had delicious, cold, clean water for the night. I eagerly drank a lot of it.

In my home we heat with wood but each stove has its own personality and the big rusted beauty in the cabin took a little getting used to. When we arrived the cabin was 40º inside and we raised the temperature up to 68º, quite cozy.

The cabin was a delight, made from square post timbers and stones. There’s a deep porch with a table and a fireplace. Inside are four large bunks, a little kitchen area and another table. Paul was delighted to find six large, heavy wool blankets and four mattresses. There was also salt, olive oil, mouse traps, Pepto Bismol, instant coffee, soap and seasonings. There was a coffee pot, cost iron skillet and a dutch over. Cutlery, too. Puzzles, cards and books. Tools for the stove, tools for cutting and splitting wood. We were really set.

I got changed into dry wool tights and baselayers and wrapped one of the big blankets around me like a shawl. I warmed up before long and started eating for really the first time all day. I’d had some peanut butter nuggets and trail mix on the way up, along with my two apples. I enjoyed a soft-boiled egg, an avocado and some dark chocolate. I had also brought along a Nalgene full of a butternut squash and kale minestrone I made for the trip. It’s a favorite and was a comfort to have up in the cabin. I used my Trangia stove to heat the soup (and make a few cups of chamomile tea) but in the process accidentally burned a rubber gasket that fell out of the lid of my alcohol burner. It left a blackened sooty mess I struggled to clean up.

We were both tired but enjoyed the stove and marveled at just how great the cabin was. I really loved it. We chatted about bikes and rides and builds and thoughts about Rivendell and what might come next. I was delighted that my wool layers, sweater and cap all dried out by the woodstove. I’d have nice dry clothes for the ride in the morning.

I made up my bed with one of the mattresses over the wood slats, a wool blanket, then my Western Mountaineering quilt and another wool blanket. I had packed a small memory foam pillow (Amazon special, oddly made in USA) and I was (truly, dear reader) as comfy if not more so than in my bed at home.

While I was warm, dry and comfy I’d wager I got about an hour of sleep. I believe I was really cranked on adrenaline and cortisol from the effort to get up the mountain and make it to camp to get everything done. Despite the pleasant thoughts in my head I just couldn’t calm down enough to get to sleep. I’d done the same ride in September (and an additional 44 miles on top of what I rode to the cabin, all in one go) and while it was tough it didn’t completely slay me. I was bodied by the ride on Monday. This time I had the Appaloosa, small Nitto racks and 26 pounds of gear. Last time I was on the Hillborne with a very light front load and no racks. I really could have used the sleep.

I got up several times to stoke the fire and to pee. Standing outside in the cold wind with the bare trees silhouetted against the bright starlight was wonderful. The town in the valley below twinkled warmly.

08 Cabin SM.jpg

The two of use were up and in a churn of packing, eating and cleaning up. We needed to get on the road as I saw rain starting around 10AM with a chance of snow. Temperatures weren’t going to get above freezing anytime soon. We made some coffee and I unpacked some cherry and almond scones I baked on Sunday. Paul unfolded our map and surveyed a route back. 

While I packed up my bags Paul addressed his rear brakes on the table out front. He’d noticed a pad on his MotoLites was rubbing the rim. After some trial and error he got them to quit rubbing but was left with more pad clearance than he wanted.

11 Porch SM.jpg

With the porches swept and the wood box stuffed for the next renters of record we departed, pushing our bikes up the steep trail and past a hut where a group of guys were staying. They’d spent the night mostly exposed, some of them in hammocks. One mentioned they were on a five-day trip. They were surprised we were on bicycles.

We decided on a route back to our starting point. I'd initially planned a longer route but with the weather we decided it was best to cut it short. But we still wanted to avoid an out-and-back so Paul found a fire road and we decided that if cars can get down it, well, so can bikes. We took the parkway for about five miles, with some long, tough, twisty climbs before connecting to the mellow fire road. It was sweet all the way down with a few manageable, short and loose climbs on the way.

At 10:20 it started raining and didn’t let up. I didn’t spot any snow, just a steady rain in the 32º air. Paul descended a lot faster than I did and we rode apart most of the way. I later learned that they closed the parkway around noon due to icy conditions and downed trees. We barely missed the worst of it. 

The fire road passed through streams and lovely secluded woods. We saw one other person, a hiker, who admonished us for riding our bikes. “You should walk, at least. Bicycles aren’t allowed here.” Well, if a diesel truck can come through here several times a week surely a bicycle isn’t going to hurt anything.

12 OR Fire road SM.jpg

Towards the end of the fire road there was a nice triple bridge crossing over a stream and we were back on country roads. Beautiful, even in the rain. I was wearing three wool base layers, a wool sweater and a big down jacket from Crescent Down Works. I had DeFeet wool gloves on under deerskin leather numbers from the hardware store. Below I had Adiamos briefs, wool underwear, merino tights and a pair of wool cycling shorts. I got pretty wet but I didn’t get cold and I didn’t overheat during our 26 mile return in the cold with ice crystalizing on my tights. 

13 Fields SM.jpg

The last few climbs were mentally difficult, I knew the roads and what was ahead and being so tired and cold I made them much tougher than they were by anticipating them and climbing once with my mind and again with my legs. 

When we reached our cars I pumped my fist and Paul ran a few laps of victory. I was eager to eat some food, crank the heat in my truck and get home to my couch and my pipe.

It was a tough couple days of riding and a nice stay at a perfect cabin. With the climbing, the scrambling in the dark, the wet weather and the cold it felt uncomfortable and adventurous. For my first overnight bicycle trip I couldn’t have asked for anything more. 

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Attachment: Packing list _ 14 November 22.pdf
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