Ethan: Two suggestions:

1. Don't use saddle adjustment to adjust your bar. Get your saddle where it
should be for greatest comfort and pedaling efficiency -- saddle height and
setback in relation to the bottom bracket or crank axle is where I start my
setup -- and then determine from saddle position where your bar should be,
and choose stem and bar to suit.

2. For the ultimate in shortness and shallowness in a drop bar (narrowness
too, it seems), take a look at the Specialized Hover bar:
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/hover-expert-alloy-handlebars--15mm-rise/p/156001?color=230548-156001

It's ugly but it has essentially no ramps because the reach is so short and
it has a very shallow drop *with* a 15 mm rise at the stem clamp. I used
one of these on my erstwhile Medium 2012 Monocog (gave it to a friend) to
get a drop bar more or less comfortable on a frame with (by my road
standard) an immensely too long top tube (59.6 cm versus my preferred 56 or
57 cm). I tried it with several stems (expensive even with generic MVS or
whatever they were stems), going from 17* 9 cm to 30 or 35* 7 cm. Still a
wee bit far but much, much better. I went thru this bar and stem contortion
because even a Hover bar (mine was 44 cm) a cm or 2 too far away was better
than any non-drop bar I could find.


On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 8:14:49 PM UTC-5 Ethan K wrote:
...  I already have the seat forward on the rails, btw. I will swap the
stem this weekend and see how that goes. Next  would be  handlebars, going
shorter reach and also narrower. (sounds like I shouldn't be afraid of
going even shorter.) I'm currently running a 46cm Noodle, which feels wide
in addition to long. When I swapped bars on the Breezer, I went with
shorter AND narrower, going from 44-42, and both of those changes helped a
lot.

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