Vincent, Garth's comments regarding cross chaining sure do seem like a 
likely explanation for the accelerated wear on the outer two cogs.  Looking 
at your picture of the bike, it appears the cranks are mounted on a fairly 
narrow bottom bracket spindle. If the spindle is narrow enough to move your 
chain line inboard - further away from the smaller cogs on the rear end - 
that would likely accelerate wear on those cogs. Frequent cross chaining 
from the inner chain ring to those smaller cogs would amplify the effect. 
Might be worth your trouble to check the chain line as you try to solve the 
riddle. 

Steve


On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 9:11:32 PM UTC-4 Michael Morrissey wrote:

> Hi Vincent,
>
> That Clem is beautiful, but your shifting issue sounds frustrating. Are 
> you running a 9-speed cassette in the back? I had the indexing Sunrace 
> thumbie on my Rivendell and performance felt just ok. My vintage Suntour 
> thumb shifters from 1983 were better, and now I have a Riv silver thumbie 
> on and it's also better. I suggest you buy one Riv silver thumbie and try 
> that out. I clearly remember the PDF saying the stock shifters clicked but 
> did not index. 
>
> Also, consider that the Altus rear derailleur is a $13 part. Maybe it's 
> just not up for your rough rides on the train tracks? I have a silver 
> thumbie with the SRAM GX 10 speed rear derailleur shifting a 9-speed 
> cassette, and it works perfectly. I highly recommend it. It has a clutch on 
> it so you can forget about chain slap and dropped chains. It's available 
> for nice prices because the trend in mountain bikes is now 12 speeds. (A 
> matching 10 speed click shifter is also available for cheap, but I haven't 
> tried it.)
>
> I also have a narrow-wide chainring on the front. Perhaps you should 
> consider one. How often are you using the biggest chainring? For me it's 
> never (I took it off) because live in a city and commute so I rarely get up 
> to speed for longer than 4 minutes. Are you regularly cruising above 15 
> MPH? If not, go lower with your gearing. Wolf-Tooth and Stridsland both 
> have excellent narrow-wide chainrings that will fit your cranks. Fewer 
> moving parts is a nice thing for your bike. 
>
> I hope this helps. Happy riding. 
>
> Michael 
>
>
> On Wednesday, March 13, 2024 at 11:40:52 PM UTC-4 Vincent Tamer wrote:
>
>> I have an on going issue with my friction shifting setup on my 2016 
>> complete Clem.
>>
>> I believe this will be my third cassette replacement now. Each time the 
>> two smallest cogs are damaged/stripped for some reason, so that when I 
>> pedal there is some crunching & ghost shifting. I cannot pedal with full 
>> force on the first two gears.
>>
>> I’ve had issues with this since day one and I have a feeling it is due to 
>> the 2016 complete clem’s shifting setup even though I’ve had it adjusted 
>> and have explained to two different bike technicians.
>>
>> The shifter setup is odd, Riv even commented on how it was a little 
>> strange in the Clem intro Pdf that was floating around for the longest time 
>> (cannot find it now). I'm hoping someone knows what I'm talking about!
>>
>> These suntour shifters are set up in a reverse position and that they 
>> have some kind of ratcheting mech in them. The clicks don’t always coincide 
>> with a shift and maybe that has created some bad friction shifting form on 
>> my part. Outside of that I’m at a loss for why I am having issues with 
>> stripped cogs. 
>>
>> I’m considering switching to an indexed set up even though I don’t want 
>> to but before I do, does any one have any wisdom they can shed on this 
>> situation? Thank you!
>>
>> Pics are attached, of the whole bike (for fun) and of the shifter. I'll 
>> grab some shots of the gears as well when I can.[image: 
>> DSCF7718_sml.jpg][image: 
>> shifter.jpg]
>>
>

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