I have a bunch of singlespeed bicycles and a bunch more "traditionally" geared bikes. Dingles, 2x1, 3x1, etc. fall into an "uncanny valley" for me. As you know, with a singlespeed you're (almost) never in the right gear. You make do. With a double or triple, I know I'd find myself frustrated, always wanting to be in the "other" gear, only to find it's not right, either.
So, to answer your question, I would not buy a DOS ENO outer ring if I wore out the ENO ring. CJ On Tuesday, October 8, 2024 at 11:49:44 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote: For those following the saga, there's an update. I received a 16/18 drive ring on warranty and bought a 17/19 to restore my worn out 18T freewheel. Both those new freewheels are built up and ready to use. Here's a weird pricing anomaly: A single White Industries ENO freewheel is around $120, which is premier freewheel pricing. A DOS ENO goes for $150. That's a $30 premium for a second gear, which seems reasonable. For a replacement outer drive ring/cog, a single is $62 and a double is $74. That's a $12 premium for a second gear. If anybody EVER had a worn out ENO freewheel, why would you ever NOT buy a DOS ENO outer ring? I can't think of a reason. Bill Lindsay El Cerrito, CA On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 11:03:20 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote: White Industries is a full on machine shop there in Petaluma. They are not set up to re-work a part. Particularly not a discontinued part. If they let me keep the bad one, I'll attempt the rework on my own. I'm in the process of buying a 17/19 drive ring for one freewheel, and getting a warranty 16/18 for the other. BL in EC On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 10:54:38 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote: Hey Bill, Out of curiosity, do you know if WI machines the cogs in their Petaluma shop? If so, would it be possible to send it to them to machined into spec. When I’ve been picking up freight Nextdoor to them, it looks like they have a pretty well setup shop onsite. It might be worth asking since that configuration is no longer available. Ray On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 10:19:14 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote: Front chain line on a double is the imaginary mid-point between the two rings. You're using a 3/32" derailleur chain. As long as you are splitting the difference you are already doing MUCH better than anybody's derailleur bike with respect to chain line. To MEASURE chainlink, you use a caliper. A very cheap one is fine. Like this: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/measure-and-marking-tools/measuring-devices/20970 Measure from the inside edge of the drive side rear drop out to the center line of the cog. That distance is X. The chainline is (OLD/2) - X. So on my RoadUno, the OLD is 120mm, and X is 16mm, so the rear chain line is (120/2) - 16 = 44mm which is vanilla "road" chain line. In front measure the distance from the seat tube to the mid line between the two rings. That distance is Y. The chainline is STdiam/2 + Y. So on my RoadUno, that Y distance is 28mm and the seat tube diameter is 28.6mm, so the front chain line is (28.6/2) + 28 = 42.3mm Within 2mm front chainline to back chainline is super. Bill Lindsay El Cerrito, CA P.S. My "faffing" was just the bad luck of having two bad freewheels: one worn out and one an objective manufacturing defect. On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 9:01:50 AM UTC-7 [email protected] wrote: General question here for the assembled geniuses: how are folks figuring their chainlines on 2 x 1 Melvin setups? Centering the rear cog between the two chainrings? I need to measure mine; my immediate thought is, how is one supposed to achieve a good chainline in this sort of setup where you're inherently not getting a straight chainline?! I have to say, for all of the apparent simplicity that a Melvin setup has been beckoning to me with, I have been spending a lot of time faffing around in the workshop! The OP has my sympathies and I wish them well in their faffing. On Sunday, September 29, 2024 at 8:03:31 PM UTC-7 [email protected] wrote: My understanding is that the Roaduno, with its horizontal dropouts, does not allow one to slide the wheel back and forth without also requiring an adjustment to the rear brake pads. The QB, with slanted dropouts, did not have that same problem. I don't have either bike, I'm only repeating what I have read. On Sunday, September 29, 2024 at 3:19:10 PM UTC-7 Corwin Zechar wrote: An 8 tooth jump between chainrings does not necessarily require a tensioner. One example of such a build is my Quickbeam as originally delivered. The Quickbeam had 32 and 40 teeth chainrings with a 22 tooth freewheel. No need for a chain tensioner as the dropouts supplied enough travel for the rear wheel to take up all the slack in the chain with either the 32 tooth or 40 tooth chainring. Regards, Corwin On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 2:58:44 PM UTC-7 Ryan wrote: Although I guess, with an 8-tooth jump on the front you do have to have some kind of tensioner On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 4:53:09 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote: Philip after shortening chain and putting on a new 19t WI freewheel , did you use the Melvin, the Dura Ace or nothing as a tensioner?...since you're just shifting between the 2 front chainrings? On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 4:24:35 PM UTC-5 Edwin W wrote: Bill, If god wanted you to use a tensioner with a single speed, she wouldn't have created track ends. Seriously, I will be interested to hear how this shakes out, and what you discover, as it is a bit baffling why a multi gear freewheel will work and a single speed freewheel would not. Edwin On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 3:39:28 PM UTC-5 [email protected] wrote: That's interesting Bill. While finishing mine this week I ran into the same or similar issue using an 8pd chain, Paul Melvin and a White Industries 46/38 upfront. The freewheel in question was old and not great, mind you. I tried using an old Dura Ace RD instead of the Melvin. Same issue. I replaced the shitty freewheel with a new White Industries 19T and reduced the chain to the shortest length I could get away with and still shift gears smoothly in the stand. I've only ridden it around a few blocks, unloaded, so far, but it's now as smooth as smooth could be. I'm surious to see, based on your experience, if it feels the same way tomorrow on its maiden, longer voyage... I'll throw a few things in the basket just to load it down some and put it through its paces properly... On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 11:54 AM Bill Lindsay <[email protected]> wrote: My first instantiation of my 58cm RoadUno was as a 14-speed, as immortalized in Will's email update. I used my wheel set which has a customized 120mm O.L.D. cassette hub which fits 7 cogs from a 9 speed cassette, updated with 10-speed spacers on what was traditionally a 5-speed spaced rear hub. Naturally we call it 7of9with10on5. I had it set up that way for a Mount Diablo Summit, and having done that, I wanted to reconfigure it with the stock wheels for normal city use. I put the stock Saint Jump wheels on there, with a White Industries freewheel, using my Suntour rear derailleur as a tensioner. Pics prove it: https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/54022678302/in/dateposted/ Problem was that in the stand, the chain was wanting to rise off the cog on my brand new DOS ENO freewheel. It was worse on the 19 than the 16, but clearly it wanted to rise off on both of them just pedaling. Weird. I attributed it in part to the goopy factory lube on a brand-new SRAM 870 chain, and lubed it up and went to bed. In the morning, I tried it out in the stand again and it was still riding up the cog. I went into my freewheel box and found a USED White Industries single freewheel, 18T, and fired that on. In the stand, that was perfecto, and that's what is in the photograph linked above. I rode down the hill that night to the local family grocery store for cilantro and few mushrooms for a soup. Turning back up the hill, DISASTER. Under load, the same riding up and skipping was happening. I took the most shallow slope back up the 400ft hill to my house, and put the bike up in the stand. I returned the 10-speed spaced chain on there, that I had been using with my 7of9with10on5 configuration, and rode that around the block. Same skipping under load. I called it a failure and put the 7speed rear wheel back on, which is still perfecto. My top hypothesis is that in a tensioner configuration, the system wants more tension from the tensioner than my 35 year old Suntour RD is providing. I may experiment with shortening the chain to the minimum length for the two-speed configuration. Some Suntour Rear Derailleurs have two different holes for the spring, so one can effectively make the spring a little stronger. That would be experiment #2. Finally, I may borrow the Paul Melvin from my 3x1 Romulus, to see if that's a far better tensioner. That Romulus 3x1 drivetrain has been perfect. For now it's a two speed, but it is running on the 18T cog of a 7sp cassette. Maybe this is all just the universe telling me to buy a purple anodized Melvin? Bill Lindsay El Cerrito, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/5775d82f-b98d-4d7a-9c02-937c054b50fan%40googlegroups.com <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/5775d82f-b98d-4d7a-9c02-937c054b50fan%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> . -- — Philip M. Watts (917) 514 2207 — -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/b634406d-0d08-4545-80ff-035d8e89abb7n%40googlegroups.com.
