My best guess is that cable isn't traveling freely. It should absolutely be plopping into place. No heroics or chainline DIY required :) The first thing I'd do is take the chain off and actuate the RD from high to low, even adjusting it so it will travel a little past the last cog, just for the test. It should do this effortlessly and without any friction. The RD itself is easy to test by taking off the cable and actuating it by hand high and low, it should move easily. If all that is good, then there's a hang up in the cable itself. With the cable end unattached, grab it with some grippy gloves and move the shifter up and down, it should move real easy. If you feel friction then there's something off with the cables.
I just realized I missed the rollamajig part, big oops ! I never used one, but frankly I'd start there, after I wrote all that ! Simply try the RD without out it. If it works fine, then there's obviously something about the rollamajig. Again, I never used one but I see it has a cable adjuster, I assume you tried that ? It could be it's simply not allowing the RD to travel as it's supposed to, as in too much tension and the cable isn't going far enough to go into the last cog. On Friday, March 14, 2025 at 10:29:20 AM UTC-4 JohnS wrote: > The reason why I haven't put the spacer between the lock ring and the > smallest cog is the concern that some how the lock ring would come loose > since the serrated surface of the lock ring would not engage with the > serrated surface of the smallest cog. There's a certain reassurance I get > when tightening the lock ring to the smallest cog, that one extra click, > just seems right and like it will stay together as intended by the > engineers who designed it. I don't get that feeling when the spacer is next > to the lock ring. > > JohnS > > > On Thursday, March 13, 2025 at 9:14:24 AM UTC-4 Will Boericke wrote: > >> I'll throw in my favorite nemesis: derailleur hanger alignment. Might as >> well check. Agree that the shift in question should happen and a 10s >> cassette should work on that hub. I have a sram x9 RD that doesn't shift >> well onto the small cog as well; I suspect it's an older weak spring that's >> the culprit there. Luckily I only ride the bike 1x/year :) >> >> Will >> >> On Wednesday, March 12, 2025 at 5:23:13 PM UTC-4 [email protected] wrote: >> >>> Two good suggestions above that I will try. Thank you! >>> It also occurred to me that I could dremel-off the teeth from a parts >>> bin cassette cog (roughly 1.6mm thick) and use that behind the lockring >>> instead of the 1.85mm spacer behind the cassette. That would be radical... >>> but perhaps worthwhile to try. >>> >>> On Wednesday, March 12, 2025 at 3:02:45 PM UTC-6 [email protected] >>> wrote: >>> >>>> You'll get better shifting if you use the cables dry and just depend on >>>> the liner to get clean shifts. >>>> >>>> PJW >>>> >>> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/18e001c4-e7f5-4c22-9346-5f40d1cdca4bn%40googlegroups.com.
