Try the real MAFAC straddle carrier, it has hole in the bolt, and it pinches like a Moon unit. And it is French, so you know it is better.
I am using MAFAC carriers with 1.2mm straddle on MAFAC brakes with the RH rebuild kit, brakes are fine. On Saturday, March 15, 2025 at 3:39:23 PM UTC-4 John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ wrote: > > Garth stated wrt the RH roller design: " I don't see the point of the > roller types ...." > > I believe the RH roller design allows the use of smaller diameter straddle > cable. RH specifies Campy deraillier cable (1.2mm diameter) vs the larger > diameter straddle cable used by the original Dia Compe style yoke. I > think RH claims the thinner cable contributes to better modulation. > > The Dia Compe yoke with the pulley should allow for the smaller diameter > straddle cable and I believe Dia Compe specifies a 1.2mm straddle cable > with that design. > > I have the RH centerpulls and did have the cable pull out of the yoke > originally. I tightened the acorn nut as hard as could and the cable > held. Be sure to have acorn nut facing OUTWARD to get the most torque > into the nut. > > The RH centerpulls are extremely hard and time consuming to setup. Their > performance does not appear to better than other CPs. They came with the > frame which I bought from a list member. I would NOT buy these new. > > John Hawrylak > Woodstown NJ > > > > On Saturday, March 15, 2025 at 5:56:52 AM UTC-4 Garth wrote: > >> As mentioned, do contact RH, a phone call would be more helpful as it's a >> two way conversation real-time where emails are like sending a letter to >> outer space and waiting for a return, like when you get one of those >> spinning wheels from a website. Waiting forever. >> >> Otherwise, count me in the with a basic Dia-Compe style carrier for being >> reliable and very functional. I don't see the point of the roller types or >> any that you can't readliy and easily remove the cable from. To me they are >> limiting, you can't simply unhook and completely remove the cable to fully >> open/release the brakes. Even the Tektro carrier that encases the cable is >> worthless in that regard. These are cases of over-engineering something >> that isn't complicated, in my opinion. >> On Friday, March 14, 2025 at 7:53:35 PM UTC-4 jeff conaway wrote: >> >>> I just set up a front RH cantilever on my bike. >>> >>> I read this thread before setting the brake up, so I was aware of this >>> potential issue. I looked through my parts bin to find different yokes >>> that would work in case the RH one didn't, and I found a Tektro yoke I had >>> used for years with no problem. It uses the same mechanism - the cable is >>> "pinched" between the yoke body and the inside of a hole that the cable >>> passes through. Based on this, I decided there was no reason to use that >>> over the RH yoke. >>> >>> What I was surprised by was that reaching the specified 8nm on the acorn >>> nut required much more force than I would have exerted if I was just >>> tightening the bolt by feel. I had to hold the yoke in an adjustable >>> wrench while tightening with the torque wrench in order to hit 8nm. >>> >>> I know that Micheal, the OP was wondering if he had overtightened the >>> acorn nut, but based on my experience the nut is intended to be quite tight. >>> >>> So far I haven't had any issues with the cable slipping. >>> >>> Jeff >>> >>> >>> On Thursday, September 5, 2024 at 5:04:51 PM UTC-4 >>> [email protected] wrote: >>> >>>> I've had the same issue, RH yoke + RH centerpulls (non-direct mount). >>>> >>>> I solved it temporarily by (by my feel) overtorquing the bolt. Like >>>> really getting some elbow grease in -- I cut my hands quite often doing >>>> this while installing and adjusting that particular pair of brakes. >>>> >>>> Eventually I just stopped using the yoke and swapped to a pair of >>>> dia-compe hangers, which are much easier to deal with due to the ability >>>> to >>>> pass the cable straight through the hanger into the dead space between the >>>> yoke and the tire/centerpull body. IMO the Moon Unit is the best, as you >>>> said, but really anything that taxes a hex wrench and has a little bit >>>> more >>>> meat to hold on to is a lot less fiddly for me. >>>> >>>> I'd say yeah, if you really want to use those hangers (they are really >>>> beautiful), talk to RH support, maybe there's one weird trick they have. >>>> >>>> On Thursday, September 5, 2024 at 7:49:34 AM UTC-7 Michael Doleman >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> I'm glad to see that this topic is generating some lively discussion >>>>> :-) >>>>> >>>>> Based on the input so far, it seems that people have had somewhat >>>>> mixed results -- some experiencing issues similar to those I have, and >>>>> others having had none at all. That's sort-of what I expected since -- >>>>> again -- my assumption would be that if there was something truly, >>>>> systemically wrong with the yoke design, they would be off the market. >>>>> Obviously they've been tested and people are using them. >>>>> >>>>> All I want to discover is what I'm doing differently from those who've >>>>> had success. >>>>> >>>>> I've read all the comments here and would say that I haven't yet seen >>>>> any ideas that I think are a factor. I've been highly cognizant of >>>>> getting >>>>> the bolt hole aligned properly, getting sufficient cable length through >>>>> the >>>>> unit, and making sure everything is clean and clear. >>>>> >>>>> Recounting, again, the way it's worked for me, the cable seems to >>>>> start coming loose after a couple hard pulls on the lever. And it's that >>>>> aspect of it which really gives me great pause. What if I'm confident in >>>>> the set-up I have while the bike is on the stand, and while out on a test >>>>> ride, but then the cable comes loose later, for reasons I can't see? >>>>> >>>>> I'm sure that an actual engineer could tell me why I'm wrong in saying >>>>> so, but to my eye the design of the yoke doesn't seem trustworthy. Most >>>>> of >>>>> the yokes that I've ever used clamp the cable against a groove, with a >>>>> washer. The Rene Herse yoke, on the other hand, causes the cable to be, >>>>> in >>>>> effect, "crimped" against the inside wall of the yoke body. That crimping >>>>> action deforms the profile shape of the cable by a bit, and I'm >>>>> theorizing >>>>> that's what might make it easier for it to slip and then pull through. >>>>> >>>>> In my opinion the best yokes I've used are the Paul Moon Unit. They >>>>> lock the cable into a groove by levering a washer against it, which (if >>>>> I've got my amateur physics right) would yield a significant increase in >>>>> clamping force over a unit where the cable passes through a hole in the >>>>> center of the bolt that holds the clamping washer. And, certainly, over a >>>>> unit that doesn't even use a clamping washer, as the Rene Herse. >>>>> >>>>> So... based on my experience, unless there's a true "a-ha" moment yet >>>>> to come, I'll likely pair my Rene Herse brakes with a different style of >>>>> yoke. Again: no knock at all on the brakes themselves -- they are great. >>>>> And no knock, either, on the yokes since this does seem to be a "me >>>>> problem" and others have been successful in setting them up. >>>>> >>>>> On Thursday, September 5, 2024 at 7:04:46 AM UTC-7 Takashi wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> I've used Rene Herse yokes and Dia Compe cheap yokes. >>>>>> It seems that with Rene Herse yoke, when there's some oil or grease >>>>>> on the cable, the cable pops out more easily than with Dia Compes. >>>>>> I've had same issue, so cleaned both yoke and cable with degreaser >>>>>> carefully, and no problem since then. >>>>>> >>>>>> Takashi >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> 2024年9月5日木曜日 21:32:31 UTC+9 [email protected]: >>>>>> >>>>>>> I have tried the Dia Compe version of these anchors and found no >>>>>>> benefit. I switched to standard fixed yokes. Also lighter weight and >>>>>>> much >>>>>>> less fiddly. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Will >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Thursday, September 5, 2024 at 8:29:54 AM UTC-4 JohnS wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Hello Michael, >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Did you grease the "piston"? I have the RH yokes on my Crust >>>>>>>> Lightening Bolt canti and they work fine, no slipping. It's been a >>>>>>>> couple >>>>>>>> years since I built it up and as I recall, I disassembled the whole >>>>>>>> thing >>>>>>>> and greased all of the parts, just in case I would ever need to take >>>>>>>> it >>>>>>>> apart in the future. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> JohnS >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 7:22:42 PM UTC-4 ian m wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 2:32:06 PM UTC-4 J J wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> It's either defective or plain awful design and manufacturing. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> It's certainly not the latter as mine work fantastically. And >>>>>>>>> considering how simple the device is it's hard to see what could be >>>>>>>>> defective. The hole? The nut? The entire process is by turning that >>>>>>>>> nut you >>>>>>>>> are pulling the shaft it threads onto towards the nut, eventually the >>>>>>>>> cable >>>>>>>>> is being pinched both at both top and bottom. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> What I find hardest to understand is how Michael was able to >>>>>>>>> tighten the nut to "a very light tension" off-bike and have it hold >>>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>> cable fine, but can't seem to replicate that on-bike. I think if >>>>>>>>> over-tightening had somehow deformed the hole you'd be able to notice >>>>>>>>> it. >>>>>>>>> If you're not bottoming out the acorn nut I gotta think you can >>>>>>>>> tighten it >>>>>>>>> further, I could be wrong but I'd think the cable would fail before >>>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>> solid block of the yoke or the shaft would. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/54ead819-fa39-401d-b02c-2fa84c025ef2n%40googlegroups.com.
