Because I have the exact frame as well, 57 sergio green tig roadini (2023 
only color?) and a similar experience. I had to check it out. 

I removed the shift lever assembly from the boss, checked the depth with a 
spoke, the hole is 13mm deep, it is a blind hole.

The D ring bolt that came with my suntour levers is 10mm long, with threads 
the whole way. Should go all the way in right?

Threaded in by itself, the bolt hits resistance at 9mm, the head of the 
bolt is not yet contacting the shifter boss.

My opinion is the boss threads could stand to be deeper by 1 or 2 mm, and 
then I wouldn't have needed the extra spacer that I put on the inboard side 
of the assembly to get the friction needed to hold the lever's position.

I think if you were to tap the shifter boss a couple extra mm, you'd fix 
the issue, but I don’t have the proper tap for it, and my spacer solution 
is working.

On Tuesday, June 17, 2025 at 1:00:08 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Garth, this is a super interesting comment.  Interesting because I'm 95% 
> sure I disagree.  I disagree because in my experience all down tube shifter 
> bosses are a BLIND HOLE.  The boss itself, purchased from a frame building 
> supply house, is indeed drilled through.  But the frame builder, as far as 
> I know, brazes that thing to the down tube, and the physical down tube 
> therefore blocks the hole.  The frame builder does not (to my knowledge) 
> pre-drill the down tube with a hole, and then align the down tube shifter 
> boss to that hole.  
>
> Since the hole is blind, you can't run a tap through to chase all the 
> threads, because the tip of the tap will bump against the down tube wall 
> long before you reach the end of the threads.  There is a special tap 
> called a bottoming tap that gets a lot closer to the end, but that's 
> generally a more expensive specialty tool, and one has to be careful using 
> it.  
>
> My question to you, Garth, is whether chasing the threads on all your down 
> tube shifter bosses is something you actually do?  Or is this a 
> recommendation generated more theoretically?  
>
> For anybody who wants to chase the threads in their shifter boss, I think 
> the best first step would be to shove a spoke down the hole.  If the spoke 
> bumps into the end of the hole, it's a blind hole, so be careful.  As far 
> as I know, all down tube shifter bosses on steel frames will be blind 
> holes.  If I'm wrong about that and the spoke pokes all the way through, 
> it's a through hole and you can run your tap through with more confidence. 
>  Be aware that the swarf will be expelled down the down tube and you may 
> want to get it out.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Monday, June 16, 2025 at 2:01:36 PM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>
>> Before going about adding any washers and such I would at least chase the 
>> threads with a tap first to make sure the threads are clean all the way. 
>> Normal function is to be able thread the shifter bolt all the way without 
>> bottoming out with the shifter installed correctly. I highly doubt the 
>> braze-ons are defectively manufactured with shorter than spec threads, 
>> though it's possible as the shop that built them may or may not even check 
>> the threads. With your Riv purchased frame, don't hesitate to contact them 
>> about things that aren't fitting correctly, that''s part of a selling 
>> frames to the public, to fit the parts as intended. They want to know these 
>> things as well. If you spend 2 grand on new frame the last thing you ought 
>> to be doing is home remedies with it. Whaddaya paying for ? 
>>
>> On Monday, June 16, 2025 at 10:30:38 AM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> My diagnosis #1 was the D-Ring bolt is bottoming out.  That gives you 
>>> three easy experiments:
>>>
>>> 1. Try the double-base washer trick, borrowing the second base washer 
>>> from the right hand side and confirming that helps. 
>>> 2. Try a shorter bolt in place of the D-ring.  The D Ring is threaded 
>>> M5x0.8, which is the same as a water bottle bolt.  Take out any spare water 
>>> bottle bolt and see if it's shorter than the threaded portion of your 
>>> D-Ring.  If it is shorter, try it and see that with a shorter bolt you 
>>> definitely are no longer bottoming out.  
>>> 3. Just run a small washer under the head of the D-Ring bolt.  It should 
>>> have a small outer diameter, to fit into the little recess in the plastic 
>>> domed piece.  This effectively shortens the bolt length. 
>>>
>>> If any of those three address your problem then you have a successful 
>>> diagnosis and a good start at remedies.  
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Sunday, June 15, 2025 at 8:30:45 PM UTC-7 [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>> My 2023 Roadini has the same issue, only on the left shifter (suntour 
>>>> superbe) and I think Bill's #1 diagnosis is happening. 
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, June 11, 2025 at 6:19:45 PM UTC-7 [email protected] 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Absolutely, will report back Patrick.  
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>
>>>>> On Jun 11, 2025, at 8:17 PM, Patrick Moore <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> 
>>>>>
>>>>> My first guess, and I emphasize “guess,” is that somehow your 
>>>>> attachment screws are bottoming out or facing some other interference 
>>>>> before they sufficiently tighten up against the lever.
>>>>>
>>>>> Blue Loctite, per my experience, ought to hold shift levers with bolts 
>>>>> working properly in place; even the old Campy record dt shifters, 
>>>>> notorious 
>>>>> for loosening, behaved perfectly with Blue Loctite.
>>>>>
>>>>> Good luck, and please report your solution and results.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Jun 11, 2025 at 11:01 AM Andrew Joseph <[email protected]> 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> All, 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My mechanic is running into some issues and I figured I would try the 
>>>>>> group prior to trying something more drastic or costly. Pictured is a 
>>>>>> very 
>>>>>> recently built up Leo, full specs below…
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *57 Sergio Roadini: Tig*
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *Size 57 frameset *
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *FSA Duron Headset *
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *Black Nitto Pearl (70) Stem NOS*
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *Crust Towelrack (600/narrowest) Bars*
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *TRP RRL Levers *
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *Paul Racer Brakes *
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *Sugino XD- 600T (XD2) Triple 48/36/26*
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *IRD QB 95 Bottom Bracket (110)*
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *MKS Monarch Pedals, Champagne *
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *Velocity Quill dynamo (Velocity KT) wheelset*
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *Ultradynamico Rośe and Cava Robustos*
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *Nitto S65 Crystal Fellow - 26.8 x 300mm*
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *Berthoud Galibier Ti Saddle *
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *Silver 1 Downtube Shifters*
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *Deore M592 Rear/Ultegra 6503 Front Der. 9sp*
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *Shimano - 9 Speed 11-34t (Deore XT M770)*
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The entire drivetrain is “new,” including the NOS FD.  But we cannot 
>>>>>> get the Silver 1 shifters to stop slipping.  Blue lock tight has been 
>>>>>> applied to D ring threads.  We have checked rear derailleur hanger 
>>>>>> alignment.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> However, on a brief five mile test, I experienced considerable ghost 
>>>>>> shifting.  Even when my shifts were perfect.  My mechanic confirmed the 
>>>>>> same and has named the shifters as the sole culprit.  We just cannot get 
>>>>>> them to stop slipping.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have called Riv an embarrassing number of times.  Two solutions Riv 
>>>>>> recommended-
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 1) Bar ends 
>>>>>> 2) Swap the outer ring on crankset to a 44T and swap to the Skeleton 
>>>>>> Key FD.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My mechanic recommended trying different downtube shifters, 
>>>>>> Microshift 2/3X 9 speed specifically.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I am considering trying everything from the different shifters to 
>>>>>> swapping the whole drivetrain to a 1X.  Or even selling the complete 
>>>>>> given 
>>>>>> I can also ride a size 54.  
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Anyone have any idea if the Microshift will work?  Seems that’s the 
>>>>>> cheapest, most straightforward solution. And it requires no modification 
>>>>>> of 
>>>>>> the cockpit.  Dura Ace 9 speed downtube shifters are apparently made of 
>>>>>> solid BitCoin.  So Microshift seems to be the best 9 speed option for 
>>>>>> downtube? 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Drew,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> “Who’s trying not to spend hundreds of additional dollars on a new 
>>>>>> drivetrain.” 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> P.S. If someone has any interest in my full drivetrain and has 
>>>>>> confidence they can make it work.  I am open to trading for a simple 
>>>>>> road 
>>>>>> group like full Shimano 105, SRAM Rival, etc. even considering 1X 
>>>>>> systems. 
>>>>>>   Shoot me a private message please.
>>>>>>
>>>>> <image0.jpeg>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
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>>>>>> send an email to [email protected].
>>>>>> To view this discussion visit 
>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/DE1BA493-7A6F-463D-BDFC-C5FF46709156%40gmail.com
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/DE1BA493-7A6F-463D-BDFC-C5FF46709156%40gmail.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>>>> .
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>>>
>>>>> Patrick Moore
>>>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>>>
>>>>> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>>
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>>>>>
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>>>>>
>>>>> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>>>>>
>>>>> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
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>>>>>  
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>>>>> .
>>>>>
>>>>>

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