Hi Friends,

I had the best year of riding. Ever. This was the year I took up bike 
touring and camping, and it has ignited an insatiable hunger in me to do 
more of it. I was on a club ride, riding next to Katie, and I said, Club 
riding is good, but it is not my favorite kind of riding. I want to do 
adventure riding, but I need a friend to do it with, and I need to have 
riding chemistry with her. 

“I want to do a bike trip out East,” she said.

“Want to do the GAP?” I asked.

“Ok,” she said. “What’s the GAP?”

And that was how this trip came to be. 

Now, we were quite the pair. She rides a carbon Trek Domane and I took my 
most favorite raspberry Rivendell. I offered her a Platypus but she 
declined. She had never ridden anywhere loaded; she has done a lot of 
“tours” where she rides in a group but has all her stuff hauled. She is 
resourceful and managed to get enough bags on her bike to make a 150 mile 
ride work. She was nervous about her tires (maybe 38s?).

I made all the arrangements. Pam is the boss of me, and she said I had to 
try Warm Showers, and here were the hosts to contact. I had to sign up, and 
then with zero reviews on my profile, hope the hosts would let me pass 
simply because I am Pam’s friend. (Have I mentioned how much I and everyone 
else adore Pam Murray?) We drove to Pittsburgh and stayed at a WS house our 
first night. The couple was lovely and everything was as Pam said, and we 
had a great late evening chat. We were out the door at 0430 to catch Amtrak 
to Cumberland. 

I was so nervous about getting our bikes on the train. What a dumb setup 
Amtrak has for this. I had to unload the bags and then was supposed to lift 
the bike aloft into the waiting hands of a woman attendant who was up on 
some platform, rolling the bikes onto a train car. Katie’s light Trek was 
no problem, but my Rivendell with its wide bars and heavier weight made 
this very awkward. I had left some things on the bike because I couldn’t 
carry all of it. At home, I lift the bike overhead onto a storage rack, but 
this was different. Now, men have this way of magically appearing and using 
their God-given strength to save the day, and that’s what happened here. 
This man was riding the C&O and he was not to be deterred from lifting my 
bike. HERO. With the bikes safely on the train, we took our seats.

We arrived in Cumberland and it was raining. It would rain for the next two 
days, with nary a pause. We rolled into town starving and in need of real 
coffee.The restaurant was darling and we were immediately swarmed by a 
group of retirees who had been chatting over breakfast. “Larry” was the 
trail president (or something) and he had a lot he wanted to tell us about 
the GAP. This set the tone for the whole trip - it would be the people we 
met that marked our adventure, not the ride. We took a selfie with Larry 
and now fortified, began our 23 mile climb out of rainy Cumberland. 

The trail is beautiful, though we missed a lot of beauty as we fought 
through rain. The trail was soaked and the mud was formidable. I felt like 
my pedal bearings had gone bad, but it was the mud and debris that were 
cycling through my drivetrain. We shifted cautiously, as we were worried 
our derailers and chains would snap. The bikes were absolutely thrashed. 
Katie had no fenders, but the seat bag she had took a lot of the damage and 
she had only a small mud stripe up her back. My Backabike bags kept all my 
things dry, which was a relief as I did not use any plastic liners. 

Our next WS host met us at Fort Hill in his pickup. I unloaded the bags on 
my Riv and as I was warning him that the bike is heavy, he effortlessly 
lifted it and set it in his pickup. “See?” I told Katie. Men with their 
generous strength, showing up and sharing it again. 

We pulled up to a gorgeous log home in the woods of Pennsylvania. “D” gave 
us a hose so we could at least attempt to clean up our drive trains. We 
were disgusting. The bikes were worse. Our hosts did not mind. We headed 
straight to the shower. “A” had set out a charcuterie board and drinks. D 
put our bikes in the garage. After we were clean and changed they announced 
that they would take us out to dinner, their treat. Dinner was lovely, but 
our hosts were lovelier. I slept like a baby in my own room in a queen bed. 
The next day we awoke to a huge breakfast. We were sent out the door with 
“fry pies”, a glazed pastry with fruit filling, shaped like a half moon and 
with crimped edges. “The hunters go crazy for these,” said A. Meanwhile, it 
was pouring outside. We waited for a break in the rain, and then D dropped 
us back off on the trail.

The day was more of the same; rain and mud. We were warm and there was no 
wind, so it was bearable. We made it to Smithton, where the hosts at 
Adele’s B&B awaited us. The rain had stopped and they had a hose and rags 
ready for our bikes. When the bikes were clean, they stored them in the 
cellar. We took showers and headed to the only restaurant in town, a 1 
block walk from the B&B. We came “home” and spent the evening on the 
second-floor covered patio. We awoke to another giant, hot breakfast and 
coffee and were treated to the story of the building and some town history 
from Christine while Dan made spinach and feta omelets. You cannot imagine 
people more dear. I was not surprised that Christine hugged us on our way 
out the door.

Finally, the weather cooperated. We rode our last 40 miles to Pittsburgh 
under partly sunny skies. We took photos, talked to other riders. When we 
got to Pittsburgh we did not dally, but loaded up and drove home to 
Michigan.

I bought “gear floss” and cleaned my drivetrain the next day. Tons of 
Prolink. I conditioned the saddle and grips and used T9 to address rust on 
bolts and in eyelets. The fork has a decent paint chip that is new. I was 
completely unbothered by this. I earned that paint chip. If this bike is 
going to have adventures, it is also going to have paint chips. I’m at 
peace with it. A year ago, I would have mourned.

I will take a moment and talk gear. I think a Platypus is perfect for this 
adventure. Backabikes are waterproof enough for rain rides. I had a rain 
skirt, rain jacket, and Keen sandals - 5 stars. Nearly all my clothing was 
merino wool. It dried quickly and kept me the right temperature. I will be 
buying more of it. Also, dyno lighting. We went through some dark tunnels 
and we needed lights. U locks: what a waste of time. I brought 2 (one for 
each of us) and we did not use them one time. I schlepped those dang locks 
along for 150 miles UNNECESSARILY. I did not wish I had something I lacked. 
I only wish I left those locks behind. 

If you made it this far, thanks for reading. There’s an Instagram reel 
below, if you want to see our setup and our trip in living color.
Leah
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DPJyVNwkUQa/?igsh=bXVrMHQ1c2Nqdmlp

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