If anyone is looking for a reasonably priced 26.8 seat post, Mike Kone at 
Boulder Bicycle has shop worn NOS 70s Campagnolo posts for as low as 49 
clams. 

Russell Duncan 
Western Massachusetts 

https://boulderbicycle.bike/AAA-Early-November-Arrivals-and-Markdowns/Campagnolo-Gran-Sport-26-8-seatpost-NOS-asst-grades-very-much-like-Nuovo-Record.html
 
pm
On Sunday, November 9, 2025 at 11:16:39 AM UTC-6 lconley wrote:

> You are welcome. Somehow, I think that there must be different sized 
> guides/pilots available for the tool in Europe, but I could be wrong. The 
> tape is my work around. 
>
> Laing
>
>
> On Sat, Nov 8, 2025 at 9:02 PM Ed Fausto <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Hi Laing,
>> Thank you for taking the time to write down your process :-)
>> I would not have thought of using the tape on the guide to make it as 
>> close as possible to the existing diameter of the seat tube and if I 
>> understood correctly, it is a critical step to make the cut as straight as 
>> possible.
>> Both my Gus and MIT Atlantis are using 28.6 seatpost.
>> Regards,
>> Edgar
>>
>> On Saturday, November 8, 2025 at 11:12:34 PM UTC+8 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> I am no expert, but I am adventurous enough to try things that I haven’t 
>>> done before. I have been taking things apart since I was a young child and 
>>> I am now approaching my 70th birthday. 
>>>
>>> 1. Lubricate the cutter, guide and the inside of the frame with light 
>>> oil - WD40, 3in1 oil, knife honing oil, actual cutting oil, etc. 
>>> 2. Get the guide on the end of the cutter as close to the inner diameter 
>>> of the seat tube as possible. I was starting with a 27.0 not a 26.8. I use 
>>> aluminum HVAC duct tape, but just about any kind of tape will do. Do not 
>>> wrap the tape in a spiral, that will change the center. If more than one 
>>> layer is required, cut the tape for each full layer. A tiny gap at the end 
>>> of the tape is preferable to any small amount of over lap. Position gaps 
>>> away from each other, preferably evenly 2 gaps @ 180 deg, 3 gaps @ 120 deg, 
>>> etc. This may take do redoing a few times, but tape is cheap. 
>>> 3. Determine the depth of cut required (seat post insertion depth plus a 
>>> little extra for adjustability) and mark the tool with a piece of tape. The 
>>> depth of cut will be from the bottom of the cutter (not the guide) to the 
>>> bottom of the tape. When the bottom of the tape on the tool gets to the 
>>> lowest point on the lug, you are done. 
>>> 4. Remove the crank and bottom bracket. 
>>> 5. Stuff some paper towels into the chainstays and downtube to prevent 
>>> chips from getting into them. 
>>> 6. If you have a shop vac, rig the hose to the bottom bracket to vacuum 
>>> the chips while you are cutting. 
>>> 7. Cut slowly, stop and check as you go to make sure that you are 
>>> cutting straight. Keep the cutter clean. Clean and re- oil as necessary. 
>>> 8. After you are through cutting, clean the inside of the seat tube 
>>> thoroughly. Any stray chips will cause rust. Automotive brake cleaner and 
>>> plumbing pipe brushes(kind of like long baby bottle brushes) work. Coat 
>>> hanger and paper towels if that is what you have works also. Check that the 
>>> bottom of the cut is smooth. 
>>> 9. Recoat the inside of the tube - frame saver, Boeshield, etc. 
>>> 10. Reassemble. 
>>>
>>> Hope that helps. 
>>>
>>>
>>> Laing Conley
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Nov 7, 2025 at 1:03 AM Ed Fausto <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Garth,
>>>> Thanks for the advise on the Cyclus reaming tool.  I did not know that 
>>>> the black portion helps guide the tool and help it center.
>>>> I have been assembling my own bikes but this particular procedure is 
>>>> quite intimidating.
>>>> Will search of Yt videos to learn more.
>>>> Thanks.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, November 7, 2025 at 6:57:17 AM UTC+8 Garth wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> A  27.2 ID of a 28.6 OD steel frame is completely normal. Tons of 
>>>>> steel frames are like that. 27.2 is by far the most common post. Not only 
>>>>> is that .7mm enough, you also have the lugs that reinforce the top of the 
>>>>> seat tube. I see many of the current Riv models are taking 27.2 posts 
>>>>> now. 
>>>>> So they appear to be moving away from seemingly everything taking a 26.8 
>>>>> post !  From my recent web shopping, most any of the steel frame 
>>>>> designer/contractors/sellers like VO, Crust and Soma all use 27.2 posts.  
>>>>> Only the oversized ST models take a larger post. That said, any steel 
>>>>> frame 
>>>>> that takes a 27.2 post you wouldn't even know if it was reamed from the 
>>>>> manufacturer or not. 
>>>>>
>>>>> The Cyclus reaming tool is self guiding. It's modular, the silver part 
>>>>> being the cutter. The initial black portion is to guide and center it in 
>>>>> the seat tube. Anyone who has tapped a BB or reamed a head tube can do 
>>>>> it. 
>>>>> Even if you haven't there's some YT videos of people doing it. 
>>>>> On Thursday, November 6, 2025 at 4:34:15 PM UTC-5 GAJett wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> What about finding a machinist with a lath to reduce the diameter of 
>>>>>> the seatpost.  I know of one in Alameda, CA, Who just did this to a fork 
>>>>>> steerer tube just before he repaired a broken right rear dropout for me. 
>>>>>> He's also a frame builder. http://www.mikkelsenframes.com/
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thu, Nov 6, 2025, 12:08 PM Dan <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I wonder the same thing. 
>>>>>>> I can’t help but feel that 0.2mm (27.2 > 26.8 is 0.4mm or 0.2mm each 
>>>>>>> side) is a lot of seatpost wall to be removed. It would be up to a 20% 
>>>>>>> reduction in wall thickness of the seat tube, possibly more?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Wednesday, 5 November 2025 at 23:18:25 UTC+11 Conway Bennett 
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I called Dave wages at ellis cycles to ream my hunqapillar to 27.2 
>>>>>>>> from 26.8, and he wouldn't be do it because of the risk of damaging 
>>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>>> frame.  You may want to consult an expert before doing this.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Tuesday, November 4, 2025 at 8:07:00 PM UTC-6 Ed Fausto wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Hi Laing,
>>>>>>>>> I also found a supplier from Europe and plan to purchase 
>>>>>>>>> the Cyclus holder and handle and 27.2 seat tube reamer.
>>>>>>>>> I plan to ream my 51 GBW from 26.8 to 27.2 so I could use Cane 
>>>>>>>>> Creek Thudbuster ST Seatpost.
>>>>>>>>> The Cane Creek Thudbuster has helped me continue cycling even with 
>>>>>>>>> my chronic lower back pain.
>>>>>>>>> Could you give some tips or techniques you learn when you reamed 
>>>>>>>>> your bikes seatpost?
>>>>>>>>> Thanks in advance.
>>>>>>>>> Edgar
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Friday, April 29, 2022 at 8:35:57 PM UTC+8 lconley wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Cyclus holder and handle and 27.2 seat tube reamer (very sharp). 
>>>>>>>>>> For when you really, really want to put that 27.2 lugged seatpost in 
>>>>>>>>>> your 
>>>>>>>>>> 26.8 or 27.0 frame. This will be first put to work on my 27.0 
>>>>>>>>>> Guv'nor and 
>>>>>>>>>> then my 27.0 Bombadil (already honed, but still tight). Less than 
>>>>>>>>>> $100, 
>>>>>>>>>> shipped from Germany. This is my birthday present to myself for my 
>>>>>>>>>> 66th 
>>>>>>>>>> Birthday.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> [image: Seat Tube Reamer (2).jpg]
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Laing
>>>>>>>>>> Delray Beach FL
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>
>>>>>> To view this discussion visit 
>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/e4b451c3-2881-4ca0-a1fc-1ed0ab7b3a9bn%40googlegroups.com
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/e4b451c3-2881-4ca0-a1fc-1ed0ab7b3a9bn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>>>>> .
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> Guy
>>>>>>
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>>>>  
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/2766b73f-6443-40d8-bbaa-cf5fe420e687n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>> .
>>>>
>>> -- 
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> To view this discussion visit 
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/ac4b78dc-c636-44e1-aec7-ed072ad54e6bn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>

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