i finally understand.

e

On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 3:51 PM, William <tapebu...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Either you're missing something or I'm missing what you are saying.
> The key for retro direct is that there have to be two independent
> freewheel mechanisms because when one is driving the wheel, the other
> one is freewheeling backwards.  You can't just use two cogs on one
> cassette, because that cassette body cannot simultaneously be rotating
> forward and backward.
>
> On Nov 12, 3:33 pm, erik jensen <bicyclen...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > for the cheapest route, why not match chain differences between the two
> > front chainrings across a typical cassette? then you wouldn't need to do
> > much other than wrap the chain and maybe replace the unused cogs with
> > spacers.
> >
> > ie. 46x34 front matched to 16x28 rear
> >
> > maybe i'm missing something, but that seems like it'd work.
> >
> > ~erik
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 1:19 PM, Z I <rockscissorpa...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > I saw these being used in one of the youtube videos on this. This is a
> > > good resource.. $75 seems pretty steep though. Unless you compare it
> > > the two-cog White Industries freewheel Riv sells! I guess that's what
> > > an "An eccentric bike nerd building a retro-direct bike" has to pay. A
> > > 26T sounds just about right.
> >
> > > I'm going to root around amongst the bike parts at the bike co-op and
> > > see if I can put some sort of large freewheel together myself first.
> > > At least for the first attempt.
> >
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> > oakland, ca
> > bikenoir.blogspot.com
>
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