So RR 31 is out -- great, must buy it. Good article. Whatever G's take
on trail, he's built me three excellently handling bikes.

On Thu, Dec 30, 2010 at 9:50 PM, Bill Gibson <bill.bgib...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Did you know the pdf author was Milhouse Vanhouten? Cali is a mythical
> place, you know...I have it, but I bought the pdfs from Rivendell...I
> hesitate to violate copyright , but I will quote, assuming you are a loyal
> customer..."Experiments With Rake & Trail"
> Fork rake is how much the front wheel is offset from
> the steering axis—a straight line through the center of
> the head tube. The aspect of the bike’s steering geometry
> that’s affected by fork rake is called trail. Don’t confuse
> it with a trail you ride on.
> Road bikes typically have between 2-inches (50.6mm)
> and 2 1/2-inches (63.5mm) of trail, and bike journalists
> who’ve written about trail have said 2 1/4-inches
> (57/58mm) of trail makes a bike not too quick, not too
> slow, just right.
> Trail theory says that more trail makes a bike easier to
> control at high speeds and over rough ground.
> Mountain bikes typically have between 2 3/4-inches
> (69.8mm) and three inches 76.2mm) of trail.
> Less trail, according to theory, makes a bike easier to
> control at slow speeds, but harder to control when
> you’re going fast, hitting bumps, or both.
> Trail is affected by: (1) the wheel radius; (2) the head
> tube angle; and (3) the fork rake (offset).There are three
> ways to increase trail:
> • Bigger front wheel.
> • Shallower head tube angle.
> • Less fork rake. Most folks who start thinking about
> trail temporarily get confused at least three times, and
> think more rake makes more trail. Nupe.
> To calculate trail using arithmetic:
> Trail = Wheel radius/Tan. of head tube angle minus
> fork offset/Sin. of head tube angle.
> If that’s Greek to you, we should be in the same club. I
> have it programmed on my computer here, so I just
> plug in the numbers and there you go…
>
> How Trail Affects Our Frame Designs
> When I design a Rivendell, I find the typical tire the rider
> will ride, and then the biggest. For all-purpose road riding,
> I shoot for 60-61mm of trail with the most common
> tire. That’s more than what “experts have said” results in
> neutral handling, but they are not the boss of me. Nor
> should they be of you!
> Then I see what the trail is with the largest tire. Normally
> a customer will say, “I’ll ride a 700x28 most of the time,
> but there are some fire roads here,
> and I’ll ride 700x35s when I go
> there.” Well, that works out just
> fine, because the bigger tire will
> increase the trail, making the bike
> better for the fire road (so goes trail
> theory).
> Most frame designers have a trail
> figure they’re comfortable with,
> depending on the bike’s intended
> purpose. But some copy other manufacturer’s
> geometries—not a bad
> thing to do, and I hope we haven’t
> reached the point where somebody
> out there considers Xmm of trail to
> be intellectual property. Finally,
> some builders just know from experience
> what works, and don’t think about trail. That’s
> fine, too!
> In Italy in the ‘80s it was common for the top makers to
> put 45mm of rake on each fork, regardless of the
> frame’s head tube angle. The big bikes, which almost
> always had steeper head tubes, didn’t have much trail,
> but the little bikes (with slacker head tubes) had more
> than plenty. I wouldn’t say that’s all that fine; in fact it
> seems odd to me. But these same Italian frames were
> ridden to many prestigious victories, which will impress
> those in the “results speak for themselves” camp. I’m in
> the “trail doesn’t win races” camp.
> When you first learn about trail, you may find yourself
> getting obsessed. It happened to me and I’ve seen it happen
> to others. Trail is interesting, but it is not the sole
> ‘splainer of bike handling, something nobody knows better
> than Waterford’s Marc Muller (more on him later).
> The Educational-Type Fun Begins
> FOR ABOUT SEVEN YEARS I’VE WANTED to experiment with trail
> by getting some forks with adjustable rakes, so we did.
> We also got non-adjustable forks with no rake, and with
> 65mm (whopping lot) of rake. You can do that when you
> have your own bike company and a publication to get
> out, but it takes more than snapping your fingers.
> The bikes are 59cm Romuluses. The Romulus is a road
> bike with what I think is a perfect geometry for allaround
> road riding. Pertinent to this story, it has a 73-
> degree head tube with 42.5mm of rake, which, with the
> stock Ruffy-Tuffy tire (343mm radius), results in 60mm
> of trail. It is as familiar to me as it gets.
> We equipped three bikes with different forks—adjustable
> rake, 0mm rake, and 65mm rake; and of course we have
> a normal one, too (42.5mm rake), so really, four. I rode
> it up and down Mount Diablo and the local streets and
> roads. I rode it loaded and unloaded, on smooth and
> rough ground, holding onto the
> bars like you’re supposed to, and
> no hands; over speed bumps (with
> hands and no hands), with a heavy
> basket, and at different speeds.
> The Problem With This Test
> It combines objective numbers and
> subjective feelings, and what I feel
> may not be what you’d feel, because
> maybe we’re used to different
> bikes, or one of us is more sensitive
> than the other. Also keep in mind
> that describing bicycle handling
> with normal language isn’t always
> satisfactory. What I call “quick”
> might not feel so quick to somebody
> who’s used to a 1987 64cm Ciocc (rhymes with
> “poach”) Italian racing bike, for instance.
> Then this: I headed into this test knowing it would make
> a Reader story, and I found myself looking harder for
> things that I might not notice normally. I went out hoping
> to find hugely noticeable differences, and any
> nuance of the bike that suggested that got pounced on
> promptly and may be overplayed. I’m not saying I couldn’t
> tell a difference, I’m just saying there’s a natural tendency
> to overstate the differences for the sake of a good
> story, even when I’m aware of that phenomenon.
> But After All That, Here’s What I Think
> I could get used to any bike here. Off the bat I’d say I’d
> have a harder time getting used to a bike with too much
> trail than I would to a bike with too little, but bikes are
> fun to ride no matter what, so I’d get over it.
> Also, I suspect the differences in the extreme versions
> tend to get neutralized when you’re on the bike manhandling
> it. I think this because the biggest difference
> came out in no-hands riding—the low-trail bikes were
> easy to ride at slow speed, where the tons-o’-trail bikes
> were hard; and at high speeds it was just the opposite.
> But at slow or high speed, as long as I had my hands on
> the bars, it didn’t seem difficult either way.
> As a bike designer, I find that quite comforting, but I still
> work hard to thread the needle. (Go to the next page now.)...
>
> There's lot's more and pictures that explain a lot, so if Grant & co. give
> permission, or if we can do this in secret with nobody seeing...
> or buy Part No. 24-127, RR 26-35!
>
> On Thu, Dec 30, 2010 at 9:21 PM, doug peterson <dougpn...@cox.net> wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone have this as a PDF?  Specifically looking Grant's article
>> on the eternal trail question.  The Atlantis & I have been out messing
>> with loading again....the things you start mulling about during
>> winter...
>>
>> dougP
>>
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>
>
>
> --
> Bill Gibson
> Tempe, Arizona, USA
>
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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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