Actually, I meant Jitensha FLAT bar, not straight bar.
________________________________ From: Ray Shine <r.sh...@sbcglobal.net> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Sent: Tue, January 4, 2011 1:57:50 PM Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: How do I adapt Riv Bullmoose Bars to unthreaded steerer Wow! OK! I don't want that problem. Sounds complicated, as well. Thank you for heading me off at the pass. I appreciate that. Guess I'll look hard at the Goathead or the Rawland set ups -- or scrap the whole idea and mount a Jitensha straight bar. ________________________________ From: William <tapebu...@gmail.com> To: RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> Sent: Tue, January 4, 2011 1:53:43 PM Subject: [RBW] Re: How do I adapt Riv Bullmoose Bars to unthreaded steerer Ray That shim is almost certainly not the way to do what you want to do. Remember that with a threadless headset system, the stem clamped onto the outside of the steerer is the only thing holding the headset together. The top cap over the stem allows you to preload the bearings. With a bullmoose you lose the top cap and have no way to replace it, and you lose the means to hold the headset together. Some front brake cable hangers have a pinch bolt, so in theory if you put the headset together with a proper threadless stem, preloaded the bearings with the top cap in place, and locked it together with a cable hanger, then you'd have an adjusted and held together headset. Then you could remove the top cap, remove the stem, and leave the headset held together by the cable hanger. Then you'd drive the starfangled nut down far enough that your shim and bullmoose can be inserted (if and only if the inside diameter of your steerer is exactly 25.4mm all the way down to a sufficient depth). If all that holds together, my fear would be that your headset will soon get knocked loose, since that cable hanger has nowhere near the clamping strength of a stem. Once it's loose, you have no way to re-tighten it without removing the bullmoose and shim, driving a new starfangled nut in there, putting your threadless stem (or sufficiently tall sleeve) and top cap so you can re-pre-load the bearings. Not exactly a roadside adjustment. While that shim might have the right dimensions to make a Nitto bullmoose fit and secure into your steerer, I don't know of a way to retrofit a means to preload threadless headset bearings using only external parts. On Jan 4, 12:16 pm, Ray <r.sh...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > I am seeking best advice (easiest way) re: using Rivendell Bullmoose > bars on a non threaded steerer. My research lands me at the following > link. Is this the way, or are there better options, short of replacing > the fork? > > http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/alloy-shim-to-fit-normal-222-mm-stem-to-1-... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
