I've been riding fixed/fixed on the stock QB free/free for a couple
years without incident. I use the rotafix method of affixing the cog.
The bikeshop broke a chainwhip trying to remove one of my cogs after
I'd traded the wheelset to a friend. A little rota-UN-fixing, and it
came right off. The original and still the best explanation:
http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm

 Philip

 Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com

On May 13, 6:03 pm, rex <[email protected]> wrote:
> on the contrary, ive been riding my quickbeam with a fixed/free setup
> on the free/free suzue hub, and so far zero problems. totally doable.
> the secret is in having two excellent brakes. obviously(?) much safer
> with a lockring but if yer not skidding to a stop i doubt it matters.
> got my advice from keven@riv and sheldonbrown.com. just my two cents.
> thanks for your time
> joe rex kelly
>
> On May 13, 7:07 pm, Ron MH <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Andrew, sounds like a good set up. I'd make one change, though.
> > Instead of a free/free rear hub, I'd go for either free/fixed or fixed/
> > fixed. The reason is, you can always put a freewheel on a fixed hub
> > but you can never put a fixed cog on a freewheel hub. You limit your
> > options by going free/free; you leave your options completely open
> > with fixed/fixed. Maybe you don't want to try fixed gear now, but you
> > may some day. I stared with a fixed/free setup and usually rode with
> > the freewheel side. Now I'd say 80% of my miles are on the fixed gear
> > side; it's a great way to go.
>
> > Good luck with your mad plotting! ;-)
>
> > Ron
>
> > On May 13, 2:27 pm, andrew hill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > Ok.. I'm sure some of you can relate.  
>
> > > You think.. nice!  A new Rivendell frame for ~ $1K.  
>
> > > I can build a less-expensive bike than what I've already got, and it's 
> > > not that bad... feels totally justifiable.  And this one is a single 
> > > speed - how much will it cost even with a couple of nice parts, without 
> > > all that expensive shifter/derailleur nonsense...
>
> > > And then you start choosing parts.
>
> > > Here is my "simple" build list, after I got done dreaming and plotting.  
> > > Sadly, only a couple of these things were in my parts bin, so I managed 
> > > to build my most spendy Rivendell yet.  : /
>
> > > 58cm SimpleOne
>
> > > Interface:
> > > ----------------------
> > > Nitto Randonneur bars (45cm)
> > > Newbaums Orange
> > > Dirt drop stem (10cm)
> > > Brooks Special, Honey
> > > Nitto S-84 seatpost
> > > White Industries urban platform / Bruce Gordon stainless half clips.
>
> > > Wheelset
> > > -----------------------
> > > Phil Wood high-flange free/free hubset, 32h, SLR drilled
> > > Velocity Fusion rims, double butted DT Swiss (laced radial front / 
> > > 3-cross rear), brass nipples.
> > > Schwalbe Marathon Racer 700c x 35
>
> > > Drivetrain
> > > -----------------------
> > > White Industries Ti BB  (113mm)
> > > White Industries ENO Crank (170mm) silver
> > > White Industries Dos ENO 16/19t
> > > White Industries Double chainring, 38/35t
> > > 3/32 single-speed chain
> > > Sugino Crank Fixing Bolts (8mm)
>
> > > Stoptrain
> > > -----------------------
> > > Sram S500 road levers
> > > Jagwire brake cables
> > > Tektro CR720 cantilevers
>
> > > Aside from rim-tape and tubes, did I miss anything?  
>
> > > I've got bottle cages, beeswax, corks, and twine, and the specific tools 
> > > for those cranks and bb.  The bar wrap will be shellacked down from 
> > > orange to something approaching the honey of the saddle.
>
> > > Might put on an extra R-15 rack that I've got, or a sturdier and sleeker 
> > > pannier rack if i can find one.
> > > Thinking about a 21t freewheel for the other side, too, or a 14t...
>
> > > Comon - who else has been madly plotting a SimpleOne or not-so-SimpleOne?
>
> > > Best,
> > > Andrew- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -

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