I'm using a Pitlock in a similar fashion as Bob.  But, instead of a washer 
of the same diameter as the "cone" head of the bolt, I'm using 3 presta 
valve nuts, 2 washers of the same diameter as the presta valve nuts, and a 
hex nut to create two "sleeves" like Philip mentioned.

I have a Sam Hillborne.  On the non-drive side of the seat lug, it's 
counterbored for a hex nut.  On the drive-side, it's counterbored for a 
bolthead.

When assembled, the "sleeves" protrude just slightly above the painted 
surface of the seat lug.  This allows me to tighten the Pitlock fully 
without worrying about damaging the paint underneath.  If you need to, you 
can add additional washers to shim it just right.

Here's the combination that works for my bike starting from the non-drive 
side.

Pitlock bolt with "cone" head>hex nut>presta valve nut>seat lug>washer>2 
presta valve nuts>washer>Pitlock locking nut assembly

Aaron


On Thursday, January 10, 2013 3:05:53 PM UTC-8, Statrixbob wrote:
>
>  I took a few quick pics of a Pitlock seat tube lock on my Hunq. I've got 
> the same on my Quickbeam. There may better way of putting this on, but it 
> works and I haven't lost my saddle yet.  I also don't find 
> it unattractive but, of course, tastes vary so if you hate it…good enough. 
> :-) 
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/mgps-bob/sets/72157632487313403/
>
>
>
> Aloha, 
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> -- 
> Robert Harrison
> Honolulu, HI
> statrix.com
>
> On Wednesday, January 9, 2013 at 8:05 PM, Robert F. Harrison wrote:
>
>  I use Pitlocks on both my Quickbeam and Hunqapillar seat posts. While I 
> may lose a little paint I feel much more secure. I've had no trouble with 
> the installation.
>
> Aloha!
>
> Bob
> -- 
> Robert Harrison
> Honolulu, HI
> statrix.com
>
> On Wednesday, January 9, 2013 at 7:51 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
> wrote:
>
> Unless something has changed since I tried it a couple years ago, I don't 
> believe there's a pitlock that's easily compatible with a Riv seatpost 
> clamp.
>
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