Strictly from the ends of the hooks (with much groaning and cussing -- I
hate taping bars -- especially since there always ends up something that
requires me to peel it off again and re-tape, such as badly placed levers.
(Don't talk to *me* about planning ahead.)

Unsolicited plug for Lizard Skins DSP tape that comes in (I think) three
thicknesses. Don't think it will take shellac, tho'.

On Sun, Mar 24, 2013 at 5:19 PM, Michael Hechmer <[email protected]> wrote:

> After changing the stem I had to re-tape my new-to-me Saluki bars.  I had
> some Cinelli cork tape of an appropriate color and decided to go ahead and
> use it, although it wouldn't be my first choice.  Which brings me to a
> question.  I learned, and have always taped bars in a single piece starting
> from the drops and working up toward the stem.  But I recently watched a
> video on the RBW site which showed a technique that started from either end
> and met at the levers.  I decided to give it a try.  The first bar went
> well enough, but the second bar left me at the lever in an awkward
> position, which was made more difficult by the very thick and stiff covers
> on the Mafac levers.
>
> Did I miss something and do something wrong?  Would this technique work
> better with thinner cloth tape and more supple covers?  I've never thought
> about it before, but is there any reason not to start at the stem and work
> a single length to the drops, where it could be tucked into the bar?
>  What's your practice?
>
> Michael
> In westford, vt where it is so muddy and slushy (cold & wet) I resist
> taking my new bike out!  Good for maple syrup, not do good for biking.
>
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