Actually, that really should not change a thing in this case. That specific adjustment is really to tune an indexed shifting setup. You will adjust cable tension, but since the "indexing" is really done at the lever, it is not a constant.
The core issue with modern drivetrains is that they are designed to shift under load with minimal input from the rider. All those ramps and cutouts and nooks and crannies in the sprocket set has been added to get that chain to easily lift off and move. Add to that the floating upper pulley and you have gearing that wants to jump. If you listened to a little too much rock 'n roll, and have trouble hearing a slight chatter of chain, you can happily ride along not realizing you are really on the edge of a new gear ratio. That is one thing that the older freewheel setups (not to mention fewer gears and hence a wider "sweet spot") did reasonably well - let you know when you weren't in gear. I get spoiled by fixed gears and singlespeeds. High teeth and no ramps means when you apply power, that chain is only going to make things roll. My Hilsen cogset is wearing out, and though it can be nursed through a ride, there are a couple gear combos which simply slip now. It makes me not want to ride it. (But, I'll swap in a new set of sprockets and chain and appreciate it again real soon...) It does make me wish someone would come out with a KlunkyShift™ sprocket set. Big, tall, straight teeth with no cuts or ramps. Probably findable if I shift back to freewheels, but I do like the wider bearing stance of a freehub. Crikey. I want steel cranks and sprockets which are hard to shift... ;^) - Jim On Thursday, April 11, 2013 11:36:08 AM UTC-7, bobish wrote: > > I think this is a derailleur adjustment issue. A prickly little problem > because it's hard to recreate consistantly on the road--never mind on the > work stand. Assuming no hanger alignment issues, a very minor quarter or > half turn of the cable barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur will likely > fix it. Problem is, which way to turn? Try and figure out (when next it > happens) what cog you've selected with your shifter vs. where the chain > wants to go to (the next larger or next smaller cog). If it wants to to the > next larger, you need a bit more cable slack. If next smaller, a bit more > tension. I don't usually run across this on my 8 speed cassettes but do so > often on my 9 speed new installs until I iron it out. I set a side a short > ride with some hills for this and just nail it down once and for all. > > Perry > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en-US. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
