No - I've never had to replace a freehub that didn't fail internally
at the pawls. They have looked pretty ugly at the splines, but since
the cassettes are a semi-solid unit, it has not mattered. Between CX
racing and singlespeed, mine have had rough lives. Off the top of my
head, I think it's just been a couple on the singlespeed mtb. Which
is why I like fixed. No pawls to worry about... ;^)
- J
On Oct 24, 2013, at 1:24 PM, Jim Bronson wrote:
Jim,
I certainly have some longer reach brakes lying around, so that
might be an option just to check and see.
I was planning on a new wheel when I went to 650b anyway, so
switching out the hub was not really a big deal. I currently have a
Campy hub, forget whether it's Chorus or Centaur, so it definitely
won't take a Shimano freehub. I thought about just unlacing the rim
from the hub and lacing up a 650b wheel, but I've had bad luck re-
using hubs with multiple lacings, the flanges don't like it.
Or did you mean replace the freehub shell every time I replace a
cassette? I've never replaced a freehub shell before, usually I end
up trashing the rim, or cracking the hub flange, or both, before
wear on the freehub shell or splines become an issue.
On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 12:47 PM, Cyclofiend Jim <[email protected]
> wrote:
Jim -
Probably better to pose that gearing/drivetrain question as a
separate thread. A lot of folks dip into conversations based on the
title.
One thing I didn't see mentioned was possibly changing your brakes
but staying with the 622 (700C) wheelsize. From your description,
the tire is hitting the brake itself (and just on the rear?). It's
quite possible that simply going to a longer-armed brake with a
better curve in the arms could gain both height for larger tires and
width to clear a fender. A centerpull might work fine, and you could
probably find a DiaCompe or similar quality with the dimensions to
check it out. At the time time your bike was built, there probably
was simply not the selection of brakes with longer reach. You may
have more room to work with than is indicated.
As far as drivetrain goes -
- Swapping from Campy to Shimano means you at least have to change
the freehub when you buy new rear spockets, and depending on the
hub, that may not be possible. Therefore a new hub or wheel.
- If you are _really_ going to use friction shifting, then it
doesn't matter what gear range or manufacturer's sprockets you use.
You can hang the cheapest compatible sprockets onto the freehub.
- You are unlikely to wear out a rear derailleur unless you are
cross-chaining, running high chain tension and continually applying
excessive torque to the der. body. Especially in a friction
shifting environment, where you can compensate for a little bit of
derailleur slop with the shifters.
- You'll burn many, many more sprockets and chains than you will
derailleurs.
Hope that helps,
- Jim / cyclofiend.com
On Thursday, October 24, 2013 10:14:08 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
Wonderful Tim, thank you for your analysis.
I have another question along the same vein for the group. I am
trying to do this on a budget, I am married now and I can't just
blow money on bike parts that sound cool on some Internet forum
anymore.
I'm thinking about going 8 speed Shimano for this conversion, even
though the bike currently has 9 speed Campy Chorus. Reason being is
that the parts are very, very reasonably priced. Rivendell sells 8
speed Shimano compatible cassettes for $30, for example. Campy bits
are not reasonably priced and in the amount of riding I'll do
preparing for PBP I will probably wear out at least some of them.
But how low is too low to go? Is there anything functionally
deficient about the new Shimano Claris group for example? My
requirements are that the parts work well, and that they look nice
on a Rivendell in keeping with the general aesthetics of the bike.
In that vein, I think the Claris 2403 crankset looks nice, not quite
polished shiny but an attractive silver, and it can be had for
around $75. Octalink BB to go with it can be had around $25. The
Claris long cage rear derailer also looks nice and goes for around
$25 or so plus is rated for 32T. A HG-50 8 spd 11-32 casette is
about $15 online and is nickle plated so looks nice.
Now Rivendell has the Deore LX derailer on their site that also
looks very nice but costs $88. It also can handle 36T which
admittedly is nice but I am fine with the gears I have now, which
are 50-38-26 in the front and 13-26 in the back. If I really need
the Deore to get the job done in France so be it, but I'd rather not
pay $88 for what I can do for $25.
Or maybe just keep the existing long cage Campy Chorus since I am
planning on friction shifting. :0
Lastly, is there any reason not to buy this wheel other than it
being machine built? I can't build it myself for this cheap:
http://www.ebikestop.com/quality_wheels_pavement_rim_brake_rear_wheel_650b_32h_shimano_lx__velocity_synergy__dt_competition_all_silver-WE7429.php
LX hubs, double butted spokes, Synergy rims, sounds good to me. I
wish it were 36H but the bike currently has 32H on it and it's been
fine for many miles of brevet riding.
Well anyway, I'll stop rambling now. Thanks for all the great input
everyone.
Jim
On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 8:13 PM, Tim Gavin
<[email protected]> wrote:
The math works thus:
700C diameter is 622
650B diameter is 584
difference of 38mm
half of that is 19mm
the 650B wheel drops the entire bicycle 19mm.
Then subtract the difference in tire size.
650B tire is 38mm
700C tire is 32mm
difference is 6mm
Hence the 13mm, because the 6mm bigger 650B tire will raise it back
up a smidge from the 19mm drop. 13mm BB drop means a bit more
likely to scrape a pedal, and a bit less clearance under the chain
ring when mounting obstacles.
The vertical clearance gained is 13mm, because the tire height does
matter there. 13mm = plenty of room for fenders.
The difference in brake reach is 19mm, because the brakes don't care
about the tire height. 49 + 19 = 68mm brake reach. The 55 to 73mm
range of the Tektro R559/Silver brakes make them perfect for this,
and I'm pleased with their performance. I put Kool-stop pads in
mine, though.
Feel free to call Rivendell to ask. I did. They told me to mind
the BB drop, since my early Road Standard has a low BB to begin
with. That's all they said. But they're very nice folks out there,
and won't mind telling you the same.
Tim
On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 7:56 PM, Michael <[email protected]> wrote:
The R559's are easier to set up and adjust, in my experience.
But remember to run it by the folks at Rivendell, there may be
issues we don't think of or know about.
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