agree on the less is better - if you soften up the leather too much, it's 
going to stretch all over, and those cracks are going to widen.  I vote for 
Obenaufs here.  

On Sunday, January 5, 2014 10:41:46 AM UTC-6, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
>
> It's hard to know for sure, but is it possible that your saddle gets very 
> dry, very quickly after riding?  After use, I mean.  If the bike lives in a 
> temperature controlled environ when it's not riding, a quick humidity swing 
> might be causing that surface cracking.  Or if it lives in a garage where 
> the temp gets pretty hot.  Surface cracking means it's drying out. 
>
> I'm not sure I'd use more Obenauf's or ProofRide on it.  Less is more with 
> that.   
>
> One of the things I've been using is Nikwax Aqueous Wax.  It doesn't seem 
> to soften the leather, but gives a barrier between the saddle and my 
> sweat-producing bits.  I figure that two of my saddles definitely see 
> longer sit-times, so they are getting salt-cured for a few hours.  
>
> Part of the answer means tuning it to the effects your specifics have on 
> gear.  I know a great mechanic who has "acid hand" and if he handles tools 
> without wiping them down, rust appears in short order. He wears gloves and 
> wipes down his tools religiously, which solves the problem for him.   I 
> don't worry too much about the Brookses on my in-town/errand bikes (one of 
> them, the B-15 on the Zeus, is thicker than your hand and will outlive us 
> all...) because I'm not really "on" them for extended periods.  But the 
> ones on my Hilsen and QB, which see the long, seated rides I'm pretty 
> careful about waxing frequency and drying cycles.
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> - Jim
>
> cyclofiend.com
>
>
>

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