Unless your tank is going to be EXTREMELY light, that motor will be to small.
An M01 has more than three times the torque, well more than three times the stall current, and weighs about 7 times as much. Ben ________________________________________ From: [email protected] [[email protected]] on behalf of Weston [[email protected]] Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 9:26 AM To: R/C Tank Combat Subject: [TANKS] Re: I've Decided On A Tank, And Other Important Stuff. http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-MP-36064-540.html link to the motor On Jul 11, 7:24 pm, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > I think i found a motor, a BaneBots 64:1, 36mm Planetary Gearmotor, > RS-540 Motor. From what I can gather it is a little less in > performance then then the M01 @ 24v, but it is a 12v motor, and also > costs less. > > On Jun 29, 8:34 pm, jvragu47 <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Wait until you get the scale drawing. Then make a cardboard layout of > > the hull. Then you'll have a better idea as to how things will fit. > > > John > > > On Jun 28, 8:53 am, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > scratch the motors and batteries. I am still going to use the C6C with > > > its own batteries, but I am going to go with a 12v system. This came > > > as I now have a 12v battery I can use. It is a old car battery, but it > > > is the sealed maintenance free one. I do not know if it will last long > > > enough, being as it is old, so eventually it will be replaced, but for > > > a start it should work. I also don't know if it will be too big to fit > > > into a little tank, so this could change. > > > > So now I have to find a good 12v motor. Any suggestions? > > > > Also, is there an online calculator that will show the difference in > > > power if a 24v motor is ran at 12v??? > > > > On Jun 27, 12:12 am, Weston <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > I've finally decided on a tank to build. I am going to build a Panzer > > > > 2 Ausf J. > > > > > I am choosing the Ausf. J because It has 80mm of Armor in the front, > > > > giving me the the 4 defensive rating, while still being a smaller > > > > tank. > > > > > For treads I have decided to go with the door hinge type, to allow for > > > > the sagging of the treads like the actual tank. > > > > > For speed controls I am going with the tri-pact for drive, and an ESC > > > > for turret rotation and gun elevation. > > > > > RC interface will be a Cheap Six Channel (C6C) Servo Controller and a > > > > Wireless PS2 controller > > > > > Drive Motors will be a DeWalt 18V motor, and will use the original > > > > gearbox with additional gearing. Not as good as the 24v i was gonna go > > > > with, but the 18v allows me to use 3 6v batteries for a total of 18v, > > > > but i can hook the C6C up in parallel to just one for its 6v input > > > > power. That would work right??? If I am wrong, then I have no other > > > > ideas on how to get the 6v for the C6C, and still have the 18v for the > > > > motors. > > -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
