Good to know. Thanks for the explanation.
- Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert" <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wednesday, August 4, 2010 4:18:16 PM
Subject: RE: [TANKS] Re: drills - black oxide vs titanum tipped
Not true Doug, what happens with those drills in aluminum is that with soft
gummy alloys the aluminum chips will stick to the bit and will have to be
peeled off. With the TiN coated bits the aluminum will not stick to the
coating. But this does not stop you from using the black oxide type. As far
as on brass, copper or bronze the black oxide bits are no problem.
Bob
***********
If a man speaks in the forest and there is no woman to hear him,
IS HE STILL WRONG?
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of [email protected]
Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 9:44 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: drills - black oxide vs titanum tipped
I've read that black oxide drills should not be used on non-ferrous metals
like aluminum. I don't know if or why this is true. Any insights ?
Thanks,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "SteveH" <[email protected]>
To: "R/C Tank Combat" <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 4, 2010 12:21:37 PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: drills - black oxide vs titanum tipped
On Aug 4, 1:21 am, Ben Holko <[email protected]> wrote:
> for a 1/2" hole 3-4mm thick in aluminium any general purpose bit designed
for wood/steel will work, just go slow and use some cutting lubricant.
>
Two other pieces of useful advice:
1) Use a drill press, and clamp the workpiece to the table, if you
want accurate hole positioning. Hand-held drilling is right out of it.
2) For large holes, center-punch the location and start with a smaller
drill (say, 3/16), and proceed upward in size by increments. Leave the
fixturing and clamping in place during this process. You'll get less
tool wander by starting with a small drill bit that gets "captured" in
the dimple made by the center punch than by starting with a big drill.
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