Thanks Charlie, appreciate the tip, will do. :)
John
That's beautiful looking part!
Be sure to seal it with Testors primer - very thin paint, and you will not lose details. If you don't seal it, there is the chance the silicone will stick to the part, it will be a mess to clean up, and you'll have an unusable mold.
Here's the before:
http://tk386.com/remotepix/sandtrooper/Zenix_Radio_Master_03.jpg
And after:
http://tk386.com/remotepix/sandtrooper/Zenix_Radio_Master_05.jpg
This was using Smooth-On Mold Max 40. I don't recall the material that we used for the 3D printed radio faceplate. Just be sure to seal your print and use mold release before pouring the silicone.
Charlie
On 12/23/11 8:01 AM, [email protected] wrote:
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Be sure to seal it with Testors primer - very thin paint, and you will not lose details. If you don't seal it, there is the chance the silicone will stick to the part, it will be a mess to clean up, and you'll have an unusable mold.
Here's the before:
http://tk386.com/remotepix/sandtrooper/Zenix_Radio_Master_03.jpg
And after:
http://tk386.com/remotepix/sandtrooper/Zenix_Radio_Master_05.jpg
This was using Smooth-On Mold Max 40. I don't recall the material that we used for the 3D printed radio faceplate. Just be sure to seal your print and use mold release before pouring the silicone.
Charlie
On 12/23/11 8:01 AM, [email protected] wrote:
--safest (and best way) for this to be molded if for the handle to be removedIn a message dated 12/23/2011 7:45:19 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [email protected] writes:The handle is currently a part of the jack, all one piece. Will see what Frank says about the molding process.
JohnChris--
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You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group.
To post a message, send email to [email protected]
To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected]
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