I was recently asked how to install a trigger push button into an R/C 
transmitter (Tx).  I've been asked this several times over the years and 
since I have a new Tx I need to do this to, I thought I'd take some pics of 
this very easy project and make this tutorial.  A push button trigger 
upgrade for an R/C paintball tank controller is highly recommended in that 
your trigger mechanism will not be accidentally left on if you forget to 
turn off a Tx toggle switch.  This can be an issue if using door-lock 
actuators for your trigger in that leaving them on will burn them out.  A 
push button is also more intuitive to use and faster firing than a toggle 
(or a joystick) when firing in the heat of battle.

The following steps can generally be used on most similar transmitters as 
their all typically built the same.  I don't need to remind anybody that 
going through with this project will of course void any warranties.


The victim, a brand new Spektrum DX5e right out of the box.  This is a 
typical low-end 5 channel radio built for R/C airplanes but is perfectly 
suitable for R/C tank combat, especially since it's a 2.4ghz unit (which is 
legal for ground models most anywhere).  
  

<https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4zFK3hHXXF8/Ujhf7Y02ktI/AAAAAAAAAR4/Kdf4oeCTCmY/s1600/2013-09-17+06.55.25.jpg>


The channel we will be using for the trigger is number 5 on this Tx.   On 
other radios this may be marked as flaps or landing gear.  This channel, 
since it's on a toggle and is either all the way off or all on makes it 
perfect for a trigger.

<https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BBF0-8qMRtw/UjhjH0y67_I/AAAAAAAAASE/gB8ep_HOL3Y/s1600/2013-09-17+06.56.02.jpg>


The push button will be installed in an existing hole on the right side of 
the Tx (since I'm right handed).  These rubber plugged holes are positions 
where additional toggle switches would be located on a higher-end version 
of this Tx.  Most 5 and 6 channel radios will have spare locations such as 
this that you could install a push button.  On some radios, they may not be 
as obvious as this one, but hidden behind trim plates and such.  If there's 
no holes, you can always make one with a drill.  If for whatever odd reason 
you would want the push button on the left side, you can easily move the 
channel 5 toggle to the right and install the push button on the left.

<https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-U3QqRji0xUU/UjhnEVi6McI/AAAAAAAAASY/wMdkamyi70Y/s1600/2013-09-17+06.57.36.jpg>


Here's the Tx opened up.  It only took six screws to get this particular 
unit open.  Be careful when opening a Tx, as it will be easy to snag and 
stress the wires that will be running all over the place.  Also, make sure 
the batteries ARE REMOVED!

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8DUTY9Hi-cw/Ujhmu-cvtaI/AAAAAAAAASQ/IH_qLt0oKfc/s1600/2013-09-17+06.56.56.jpg>


Here's the backside of the channel 5 toggle switch.  I will not be 
replacing it but wiring the push button inline with it.  This effectively 
turns the toggle into an arming switch for the trigger.

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kaKjGFzovww/UjhoePAe2-I/AAAAAAAAASk/HdY-wZhtgdg/s1600/2013-09-17+06.57.06.jpg>


The rubber plug is removed at the switch position I want to use.  It needed 
to be enlarged a bit to fit the push button.

<https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ceTEQvp7xqU/UjhtDWPyqLI/AAAAAAAAASw/T3pGX-2gRCI/s1600/2013-09-17+07.05.09.jpg>


These are typical push buttons that work well for this application.  They 
were both sourced from Radio Shack.  You will need what are called Normally 
Open (NO) switches.  This means that when not depressed (normal state) 
there is no connection between the two contacts.  When depressed, the 
circuit is closed between the two contacts.  I will be using the larger 
switch because it looks more impressive on the Tx, and as everyone knows, 
looks are half the game when it comes to your R/C battle tech gear!

<https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AdMg0XQcc68/UjhtwbafvLI/AAAAAAAAAS4/30UkiwhNu_0/s1600/2013-09-17+07.01.51.jpg>


Don't ever throw perfectly good wire away!  This wiring harness came out of 
an old hardrive enclosure that was chucked.  The wires are the perfect size 
for this project.

<https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xuel8wbmZ14/UjhuzgUGfRI/AAAAAAAAATE/oR0w-s0sRYQ/s1600/2013-09-17+07.16.23.jpg>


Wires are soldered to the push button.

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cO9GyKqMSDY/UjhvN_lrWMI/AAAAAAAAATM/V4AA3gmU_y8/s1600/2013-09-17+07.21.49.jpg>


Ready to void the warranty?  If so, CUT ONLY ONE of the wires going to the 
channel 5 toggle switch.  Don't cut both, ONLY ONE and it doesn't matter 
which one.

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jjcch02P6Bk/UjhvatcU9_I/AAAAAAAAATU/TjbT4McRxR8/s1600/2013-09-17+07.25.33.jpg>


Strip, twist and solder the wires from the push button onto the channel 5 
wiring as shown.  If your not a good solderer, small crimp connectors will 
work also.

<https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--DltBXJTbRc/Ujhv_ZSQagI/AAAAAAAAATc/iAa1JWiGn2U/s1600/2013-09-17+07.34.26.jpg>


Heat shrink tubing is shrunk over the solder joints.

<https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2_XUiA3QrQI/UjhwZ8kkAhI/AAAAAAAAATk/wiHUvOSd-sM/s1600/2013-09-17+07.38.11.jpg>


The wiring is folded together and wire ties applied to act as stress 
reliefs.  

<https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G75ol6HSNrg/UjhwmfFGB0I/AAAAAAAAATs/XGDV4JIRJZ4/s1600/2013-09-17+07.40.02.jpg>


The push button is mounted into the case.

<https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bWrMNKaGOdk/UjhxC4bNNnI/AAAAAAAAAT0/vm90M1SzJZY/s1600/2013-09-17+07.40.55.jpg>


And the finished product.  Make sure you don't pinch any wiring between the 
case halves when screwing them back together.  When testing, If the button 
doesn't work, just flip the channel 5 toggle to the other position to arm 
it.  If it still doesn't work, you really messed something up.

<https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cRWwzHzh0Vg/UjhxZ7zwxEI/AAAAAAAAAT8/-uoSXAjaykI/s1600/2013-09-17+07.48.48.jpg>

Now you have a Tx with that bid bad red trigger button on the side.  All 
your enemy's will be in fear (and awe) of your battle controller and your 
undisputed technical prowess!


As stated, these steps will work with most typical air radios.  Since you 
can potentially ruin the Tx if you screw something up, it's best to use low 
cost or used radios.  If your using a higher end radio like a 9 channel 
heli radio, the above procedure will still work but you may not have any 
spare switch positions as they will all be filled up with toggles or rotary 
pots.  In this case, you can either drill a new hole where you have space, 
or what I've done in the past is pull an unneeded toggle (like servo rate) 
leave it wrapped in electrical tape and in an open spot inside the Tx. 
 This not only opens up a switch position but does not impact the electrics 
of the displaced toggle switch.

Steve Tyng








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