It won't work. I don't get picks of my testing but I tryed exacly the same
idea. It's hard to explane... When you got your track straight let say that you
got .125inch of space between each treads. Yours treads are on the outside of
the chain axle so with a larger radius then the chain axle. When your treads go
arround let say the idler the chains will do there jobs buy turning arround
each pins of the chain. It's make the space between yours treads larger(let say
.25inch) of what they are when they are straight(I'm sure that all tankers that
have tryed attachement treads can confirm that....) .
When I saw this, I though that I just needed to make theeths on my sprocket .25
inch large to fit in the space of the treads, but when the track becomes
straight, the space close and cut the teeth that you try to put in. So, I tryed
to do the same thing but with .125inch theeths but it did the same things...
The problem is that the total length of the treads and the spaces changes
drastically from around your sprocket to straigth line....
I had invested around 200$ of bike chain, bolts, nuts and aluminium treads pad
few year ago thinking that I was smarter then other guys... I have waste two
month in prototype making with all the manners I could think to make its work
that way.... Seriously the tank i'm working on is made with the simple and
durable Tyng Tracks System with sprocket drive and the 25ft of chain geting
dusty in a corner of my garage.
You can try if you want but if you understand what i'm trying to explain, it
will be better to think about building your track a different way.
Jean-Maxime Cyr
St-Pierre
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2014 14:55:24 -0700
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Treads
I'm guessing attachment chain is designed with ready bolt holes? Sounds like
it would be a bit more expensive, people wouldn't use it as much. As for the
"skip tooth" IIRC it's best just made--cut out the desired teeth by whatever
method you care for.
I'm planning on a modified chain track system--two chains on each belt, and
wooden treads just screwed on. The big difference was instead of friction
drive, I was going to cut sprockets that actually engage the treads. It'll
take some math, and without modeling software some trial and error, but it
shouldn't be terribly difficult to get the sprocket right. This gives the
reliability of a sprocket drive, without the mess of dealing with modifying
sprockets or any of that. You could also do something similar with the larger
roller chain down the middle, using sprockets on the treads instead of the
chain to drive it.
--
--
You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group.
To post a message, send email to [email protected]
To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected]
Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "R/C
Tank Combat" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to [email protected].
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
--
--
You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group.
To post a message, send email to [email protected]
To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected]
Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "R/C
Tank Combat" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to [email protected].
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
