Todd, Holt and Travis have really hit the nail on the head re: problems with these types of configurations. However there is a successful way of doing it. I initially learned many years ago what NOT to do, and how to provide protection against Flashing of the liquid. I'd agree, the heat exchanger shoud be exterior. The ones i built were made with the extruded aluminum used to make thermal solar panels that allow the friction fit cup to receive a 1/2" copper pipe. A combination of series or parallel sections would be fixed to the outside of the firebox. This loop has to be pumped! the pump control should be activated through a low-voltage relay through a paralleled set of snap-disks (for redundant safety) located at the heat exchanger. There are a veriety of fixed/adjustable snap-disks with setpoint ranging in the low to high temperature ranges. I liked using the fixed 110F on/90F off, they are cheap. Hope this helps Mario Best Power Intl. ----- Original Message ----- From: Travis Creswell To: 'RE-wrenches' Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 9:01 AM Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] hydro coils
Assuming you’re talking about the units that actually installed in the fire box; I’ve actually disconnected a few over the years because they overheated the water to point of regularly blowing the pop off valve of the domestic hot water heater. It’s pretty spooky to rely on the P&T valve in that manner. These were retired folks that didn’t use much hot water and plenty of time to keep the wood stove stoked. Hyrdo Coils (etc) would probably work OK for an installation that didn’t keep the wood stove going 24hrs/day, used plenty of hot water and had a very attentive owner. But to answer Todd’s question. I haven’t seen a new one for long time. Seems like I’ve seen a few NOS ones on Ebay and in the dusty corners of wood stove dealers. There was a product that actually installed on the outside of the firebox in such a manner that the heat was conducted to it. I don’t remember who made it and it’s been years since I’ve seen it. Of course it wouldn’t be near as efficient but that would be a good thing in this case plus it didn’t void the stoves warranty because you didn’t have to drill any holes into the stove. Best, Travis Creswell Ozark Energy Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 8:40 AM To: RE-wrenches Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] hydro coils Todd, Just a friendly point - I know you probably know---be real careful doing that. That use to be an option on some of the woodstoves I sold 25 years ago until,.....BOOM! ..........DIY not recommended. Holt E. Kelly Holtek Fireplace & Solar Products 500 Jewell Dr. Waco,Tx. 76712 254-751-9111 254-228-9621 (cell) [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.holteksolar.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Todd Cory To: [email protected] Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 11:57 PM Subject: [RE-wrenches] hydro coils I have a client that is wanting to add a water loop in their wood stove. Does anyone know if the old SS hydro coils are still made? Todd -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.549 / Virus Database: 270.8.6/1769 - Release Date: 11/5/2008 7:17 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.549 / Virus Database: 270.8.6/1769 - Release Date: 11/5/2008 7:17 AM ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: [email protected] Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
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