Wrenches, Forwarding the off-list reply to my post, below. (Matt's reply to the List bounces back to him). I've received a few replies off-list from other wrenches who are of like mind on this. -Kelly
------ Forwarded Message From: <[email protected]> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 09:27:46 -0400 (EDT) To: Kelly Keilwitz <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Metal roof support flashing Kelly, We have a great relationship with one of Kentucky's largest metal roofers. Our market sounds like yours - most roofs are ribbed seams and the standing seams are always iffy according to S-5 specs. We use stanchions for all our work and we used to install the oatey multi-flash over top. We asked our roofer about this practice and he informed us that we are simply making new holes that stand just as good a chance as leaking. For this reason we have gone to simply using two lag screws per stanchion on a piece of epdm tape with some appropriate sealant. That said, this is just advice I have received from a self-proclaimed expert (albeit one that installs numerous metal roofs). This was a great question and I look forward to hearing the response of others. Regards, Matt Partymiller Solar Energy Solutions LLC (859) 312-7456 [email protected] > Wrenches, > > We install PV & SHW on a lot of flat-pan metal roofs here in the Great > Northwest. Most of these roofing seams are not amenable to S-5! clips > and > if they are we can¹t trust how the roof is held down. > > We want to install the supports to best roofing practices. The roofers > that > we¹ve worked with use rubber boots that fit over vents and holes, which > seal > to the roof with goop and are attached by screwing through the ring at the > base of the boot, through the roofing, into the roof sheathing. > > The flashing boot around the post requires 5 to 9 more screw holes, > depending on the diameter and doesn¹t conform around the standing seams > very > well. Additionally, on roofs with no full sheathing deck like with skip > sheathing, and horizontal perlins - the boot cannot attach to the roof > very > securely. > > Although this seems necessary for situations where there is an actual > object > going through the roof (e.g. conduit, pipe, and vents), I don¹t see how > flashing this way will be better than simply using posts without the boot > flashing, or even L-feet, direct to the roof, with an EPDM gasket, with > one > or two lag bolts predrilled into the roofing truss or perlin, and filled > with goop till it squirts out. > > What do you do on metal roofs in these situations? > > Thanks, > > Kelly Keilwitz, P.E. > Whidbey Sun & Wind, LLC > Renewable Energy Systems > NABCEP Certified PV Installer > WA Electrical Administrator #KEILWKM923RB > 987 Wanamaker Rd. > Coupeville, WA, 98239 > 360.678.7131 > [email protected] > WA Electrical Contractor #WHIDBSW920MS > WA General Contractor #WHIDBSW946M1 > > > > _______________________________________________ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: [email protected] > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ------ End of Forwarded Message _______________________________________________ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: [email protected] Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
