Jeff,

About 8 months ago I built my first LED billboard powered by PV's. The LED 
light manufacturer could not deliver the 12 volt version fixtures in time but 
they had 120 volt models in stock. I modified the plans to use a Morningstar 
Suresine inverter. The system has been working flawlessly even through the 118 
degree summer heat in Yuma. I used relay control to turn off inverter DC power 
during the day. Perhaps this will be a simple solution but you will need to add 
in the conversion losses. 

Larry Crutcher
Starlight Solar Power Systems




On Dec 16, 2011, at 11:24 AM, Jeff Yago wrote:

I have a local sign company that asked is to provide a solar lighting system 
for a double sided sign they were building for a large retirement community 
entrance.  We have provided many solar lighting systems just like this over the 
years and sent them several examples.  All our systems have been turn-key in 
that we provided the 12 VDC ground mounted LED flood lights with the separately 
pole mounted solar module(S) and battery/controller box.   We “assumed” when we 
told them our system includes the LED lights that they understood that we were 
providing the lighting. 
 
Unfortunately, when we arrived on the site to install the solar system, they 
said they did not need our LED lights, they wanted us to power the LED lights 
inside the sign.  We opened up the signs and found two 120 VAC electronic LED 
power supplies.  Each was clearly labeled as providing a maximum of 5 amps at 
12 VDC output, and each powered a separate string of about 150 tiny plastic 
“blocks” and each block contained 2 small LED lamps.   We immediately advised 
the client that the solar  system was designed to power our two  12 VDC flood 
lights and we would have to totally tear out what we had just installed and go 
to a much larger system that included an inverter, larger array, 120 VAC timing 
device, and replace the 2 conductor DC underground wiring  with 3-conductor AC 
wire and all  this would really increase $$$.
 
I said as an alternative, why can’t we just cut out the two electronic120 VAC 
input  LED drivers since we are providing well regulated 12 VDC power direct 
from the GEL battery.   He checked with their LED lamp supplier and they said 
they strongly disagree and will void warranty.  Since we are talking about 
almost 300 total LED devices my client is afraid to give us the OK, even though 
we did run them overnight and everything worked just fine.   As I recall, an 
LED needs something in the circuit to limit the amp current, not the voltage 
flowing through it,  or it will just get brighter and brighter and then fail.  
However, I thought almost all strings of separate LED lights already had some 
kind of regulator built into each light block otherwise those near the end of 
the string would be less bright than those near the power source.    Is this 
correct??
 
Finally, if strings of LEDs require some kind of voltage or current regulator, 
I can’t believe they all have to run on 120 VAC as indicated by this LED 
manufacturer who offers no alternative.    Any LED experts out there that can 
point me to some type of DC-to-DC converter or current  regulator that can 
replace these 120VAC LED drivers?
 
Thanks,
 
Jeff Yago
 
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