Thanks for the responses, all.

Matt, I am coming up short with an internet search for 'Seltrol 112' and 
'Seltrol 112 inhibitor.' Do you have a data sheet and/or a lead where to buy it 
and find out more?

Thanks,
-Nathan

--
Nathan J. Stumpff - Arctic Sun, LLC
NABCEP Certified PV Installer #091209-175
NABCEP Certified Solar Heating Installer #032412-14
[email protected]
Office: 907/457-1297

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] 
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of 
[email protected]
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 5:35 AM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Thermal storage water stabilizer

We have used Seltrol 112 as an inhibitor in large unpressurized drainback 
systems based on a recommendation from Holocene.

I have previously worked on large unpressurized systems from other installers 
and not seen any issues with their tap water-only systems (though I have seen 
multiple issues with tank corrosion due to incorrect tank material 
specification).

Matt


> Nathan,
>
> We've done a couple of systems with large unpressurized tanks (STSS).
> They work well but there are a couple of things you need to pay 
> attention to.  We use tap water to fill the tank which works fine but 
> you have to make sure the PH of the water is in the correct range.  I 
> can't remember what that is off hand but the STSS manual has a whole 
> section on correct PH and want to add (I think it's baking soda) to 
> correct the PH.  The second tip is make sure all the ports and the lid 
> are properly sealed with calk.  The STSS tanks come with the calk, I'm 
> not sure if other brands include it.  If you don't seal all the 
> openings well when the tank heats up and produces condensation that 
> water will leak out the ports and create a mess and reduce the efficiency of 
> the insulation.
>
> We used to make our own heat exchangers with K soft copper and trex to 
> hold it all together.  That worked well on most systems but we had one
> where the copper eroded where it was in contact with the trex.   We think
> it was due to improper PH of the water in the tank. I'd recommend 
> buying the heat exchangers from the manufacture.
>
> Good luck,
> Will
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ____________________
> Will White
> Regional Field Operations Manager - New England
>
> Real Goods Solar
> 64 Main St.
> Montpelier, VT 05602
> Tel: (802) 223-7804
> Cell: (802) 234-3167
> www.realgoodssolar.com<http://www.realgoodssolar.com/>
>
> [Description:
> RGS12_Q2_MYTH_static_signature_1b]<http://realgoodssolar.com/landing/8
> 7_solar_myths.php>
>
>
>
> From: [email protected]
> [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Nathan 
> Stumpff
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 3:03 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: [RE-wrenches] Thermal storage water stabilizer
>
> Thermal wrenches,
>
> I have a series of upcoming projects involving large (up to 10,000 
> gallon) water storage. They are closed (air-tight) but unpressurized 
> (oversized expansion capability) systems, basically just a mass of 
> water. We move heat in (solar, masonry heater) and out (DHW, space 
> heating) exclusively via heat exchangers, so once we seal up the lid 
> there is no introduction of any new material, including air, until 
> bladder replacement or other maintenance, hopefully a long time off.
>
> Obviously de-ionized water would be the best choice for initial fill, 
> but it is not going to happen. My thought is that with no new source 
> of oxygen, minerals, etc., the small amounts that will be present on 
> fill up can't pose a big problem.
>
> Anyone with experience here? Any ideas or leads for a stabilizer to 
> add on initial fill? What problems am I not seeing?
>
> Many thanks,
> -Nathan
>
> --
> Nathan J. Stumpff - Arctic Sun, LLC
> NABCEP Certified PV Installer #091209-175 NABCEP Certified Solar 
> Heating Installer #032412-14 
> [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
> Office: 907/457-1297
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Matthew Partymiller
Solar Energy Solutions LLC
(859) 312-7456
[email protected]


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