Hello Brian,

I am running one of these older French models at home as well.  Do you happen 
to have a source for parts?

Thanks,

Jason Lerner
Waldron Power and Light Co.

On Sep 30, 2013, at 9:39 AM, Brian Teitelbaum wrote:

> Hi Bill,
> 
> I'm still running an Aquastar 125BS (original French model, before Bosch 
> bought them) that I installed in 1990. I've had to rebuild the water valve 
> once (after a freeze up; it's in an unheated outside closet on the north side 
> of my house), the high-temp sensor once, and I needed to replace the 
> thermocouple a few times when I was just using a small propane tank to run 
> it. I installed a 250 gallon propane tank in the late nineties and haven't 
> had to replace the thermocouple since. 
> 
> The Aquastar still works great, even when my incoming water temp is near 
> freezing. I just have to use less cold-water mix during the winter.
> 
> Are you finding the new Bosch models to be this reliable?
> 
> Brian Teitelbaum
> AEE Solar
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] 
> [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bill Loesch
> Sent: Monday, September 30, 2013 5:00 AM
> To: RE-wrenches
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] On demand WH
> 
> 
> Hi Bill, et al,
> 
> There are two major categories of tankless water heaters-natural draft (which 
> work very similar in control aspect to a conventional tank i.e.. 
> no electric required, some form of pilot light) and power vented (all power 
> vented machines have need for at least a fan, most a computer with some form 
> of display included - if your own body is incapable of telling you if the 
> water is sufficiently hot).
> 
> Of the Big Five (major players in the tankless market) all manufacture one or 
> more models of power vented tankless. Today, only Bosch markets a natural 
> draft tankless. Bosch offers more than one model of natural draft tankless, 
> standing pilot and intermittent pilot. If you like simple, trouble free, and 
> low life cycle cost, you have but one choice.
> 
> 
> http://www.bosch-climate.us/files/201304181918370.520PN_English_06.2011.pdf
> 
> What must be properly addressed with _any_ tankless is intake and exhaust 
> venting, gas line sizing, and water quality. Since this isn't a tank, the 
> pilot flame does almost nothing in terms of freeze prevention.
> 
> Some manufacturers state flow rate for their heaters without also providing 
> temp rise. Flow rate without temp rise is meaningless. The above is a 117,000 
> BTU/h machine. Sometimes winter ground water temperatures are significantly 
> colder than summertime temps. If you want hot water in the winter, too, make 
> sure you use the appropriate temp rise. Hardness is the biggest issue with 
> water quality, if you scale the heat exchanger you won't get the performance 
> advertised. If you have hard water, a water softener or descaling _as 
> required_ is necessary.
> 
> I am a big fan of tankless and have been since '89 when I was first 
> introduced to them as a user. Today, I install and troubleshoot all five 
> major manufacturers. Co-located with the load, tankless provides you not only 
> endless hot water but also instant hot water.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Bill Loesch
> Solar 1 - Saint Louis Solar
> 314 631 1094
> 
> 
> On Sat, Sep 28, 2013 at 10:19 PM, frenergy wrote:
> 
>> Off-grid Wrenches,
>> 
>>        I'm working on a load sheet and am having a hard time finding 
>> standby and while firing electrical usage for a propane-fired on 
>> demand water heater.  Do they some/all have standing pilots, glow 
>> bars, something else?  I'm guessing the standby power needs are very 
>> low but we all know how even 10-15 watts adds up over 24 hrs when 
>> you're off-grid.
>> 
>>        If any body has some actual numbers rather than just pdf.specs 
>> (though manus specs might help some), I would be most grateful.
>> Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> Bill
>> Feather River Solar Electric
>> 
>>     ------------------------------
>> 
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