Thinking out loud here: Can you, 1) Use short pieces of the TC for the box entry /exit. Butt crimp, solder, insulate / heat shrink USE-2 or PV wire to the emerging TC tails. Or, 2) Can you modify the locknuts on the new 3/8" CGB by grinding or cutting to reduce their diameter? Or, 3) Ditch the locknuts, use epoxy to fasten the CGB to the junction box?
Dick Ratico Solarwind Electric You Wrote: Wrenches, I do a fair amount of work on ancient systems, just because there's been off grid here for decades. I'm rewiring several old arrays for my next door (meaning < 1/4 mile away) neighbor. The particular array has six 53W Solec modules wired as three two-module 24V pairs, on a Zomeworks tracker so old that it has aluminum rails and attached freon canisters instead of the integral square tubes. Both modules and tracker continue to work well, but the wiring is so degraded from sun exposure that's it's bare in spots, and this is what I want to fix. Each module has a tiny j-box - 3" x 3" x 7/8" deep. Each j-box has a single 3/8" cord grip bushing (CGB). Each bushing has two #10 conductors coming out of the single hole in the CGB. The O.D. of each wire is about the same as that of THWN. The problem is that the single hole in the CGB is only large enough to fit this diameter. USE-2 is too large, and modern PV wire is way too large. I bought a dozen replacement 3/8" CGBs from Del City, but the matching lock rings are too large to fit inside the j-boxes. I'd be cautious about using a narrow Unibit to drill an additional hole in each j-box anyway, given that the holes would be so close to the backsheet. The easiest solution would be to find some sunlight-resistant, wet-rated single-conductor wire in #10 or #12 that has an insulation O.D. about the same as THHN/THWN. Any ideas, please? Code is not an issue in this instance - I just want a solution that works. I thought about using float switch cable, which is UV-resistant, wet-rated, direct-burial-rated type TC. We keep plenty in stock for signal circuits, and it fits and is strong. The problem is that I need single conductors, because each module will have one series conductor and one output conductor, and they run to different locations. Are there any better ideas out there? Thanks, Allan _______________________________________________ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: [email protected] Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
