USE LEMONS TO ADD A TOUCH OF SUN TO MEALS With winter lingering on, the sunny presence of lemons is more welcome than ever. Each year, demand for lemons peaks with the temperatures, as millions are squeezed for lemonade. But this is the time of year you need their brightness the most.
Pasta has an unlikely affinity for lemon, both zest and juice. Creamy, cheesy spaghetti al limone is succulent and lively. For a more streamlined dish - no need for a recipe - toss olive oil-splashed spaghetti with lemon juice and zest, then finish with Parmesan and a hit of the fermented anchovy sauce called garum or with some anchovies melted in hot oil. Lemon is chicken's best friend - tossed with fennel and egg yolk for a rich, tangy sauce, as in the accompanying recipe; stuffed whole inside a roasting bird with a sprig of rosemary; or wrapped in foil, baked until soft and puréed for a sauce. California's Meyer lemon, with its distinctive perfume and sweet, delicate flesh, has an almost cultlike following. A hybrid of lemon and sweet orange, it can be sliced, dressed with olive oil and sea salt and eaten on its own as a salad or side dish for chicken or fish. Add a handful of slices to vegetables or fish you are deep-frying: They emerge as crisp lemony wafers. In the United States the Eureka variety is probably the most widely grown. With a bowlful of lemons on the table, who needs bottled juice? They last for several weeks and are good to keep on hand for glazing a cake, zipping up a soup or dressing a salad. And as you walk by, reach out, scratch the skin and inhale - suddenly, regardless of the weather outside, you're in a lemon grove. Chicken Breasts With Fennel And Lemon Yield: 4 servings 1 lemon 1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts Salt 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium-large fennel bulb, sliced lengthwise and cut into strips 1 1/2 cups Pinot Grigio or other dry white wine 1 cup chicken broth 1 pinch ground cinnamon 2 egg yolks With a vegetable peeler or paring knife, remove the lemon zest (yellow portion of peel). Slice zest into matchsticks. Juice lemon, strain and set aside. Lightly sprinkle chicken with salt. Put a deep frying pan over medium-high heat; pour in oil. When oil is hot, gently sauté chicken breasts until they are about half-cooked, about 2 minutes per side. Remove from pan. Pour off oil and discard, then add fennel, wine and lemon zest to pan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cook until wine is reduced by about half and fennel is tender. Add broth and cinnamon, bring to a boil and cook about 5 minutes to reduce sauce a bit. Add chicken with its juices; cook for 2 or 3 minutes. In a small bowl, beat egg yolks with half the lemon juice (about 1 tablespoon), then ladle in about 1/4 cup of the sauce. Mix well, then add to pan, mixing well. Cook over medium heat, stirring a bit, until sauce appears creamy. Taste and add more juice, if desired. Spaghetti Al Limone Yield: 4 to 6 servings 1 lemon 1 1/2 cups dry white wine 3/4 to 1 1/2 cups heavy cream, to taste, divided Sea salt 1 pound spaghetti 3 tablespoons butter, in pieces 3 1/2 to 4 ounces freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to taste 1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, to taste Freshly ground black pepper With a vegetable peeler or paring knife, remove the lemon zest (yellow portion of peel). Slice zest into matchsticks. Juice lemon, strain and set aside. Combine zest and wine in large nonreactive pan; bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-high and cook until mixture is syrupy and reduces to about 1/4 cup, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Pour in about 1/4 cup cream. Stir, then pour in remaining cream. Return to stove; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until thickened and reduced slightly, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Cook pasta until al dente; reserve 1/2 cup cooking water, then drain pasta. Return hot pasta pot to stove. Pour in cream mixture; add butter and lemon juice. Stir, then add hot drained pasta and a few tablespoons of cooking water. Toss together. Add cheese in three or four parts, tossing each time to meld cheese with sauce. Add more cooking water if sauce is too thick and crumbly. Ladle onto plates; drizzle each portion with olive oil, then add a little salt and pepper. Lr Smiles --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ Access the Recipes And More list archives at: http://www.mail-archive.com/recipesandmore%40googlegroups.com/ Visit the group home page at: http://groups.google.com/group/RecipesAndMore -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
