How to Make Flour Tortillas (with Mixed Results)

 

by Patricia Mitchell

 

My research revealed that flour tortillas originated in Sonora,

a northern Mexican state which shares a long border with the US.

Mexican cooks there had access to white flour and incorporated

it in their tortillas.

 

Chewy Flour Tortillas

 

These tortillas have real body and taste; they are perfect for

gorditas, fajitas and eating out of hand.

 

2 cups all-purpose flour

1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

3/4 cup lukewarm milk (2% is fine)

 

Stir together the flour and baking powder in a large mixing

bowl. Add the salt and vegetable oil to the lukewarm milk and

whisk briefly to incorporate. Gradually add the milk to the

flour, and work the mixture into a dough. It will be sticky.

Turn the dough out onto a surface dusted with flour and knead

vigorously for about 2 minutes (fold and press, fold and press).

The kneading will take care of the stickiness. Return the dough

to the bowl, cover it with a damp cloth, and let it rest for 15

minutes. (This dough will not rise, but it needs a rest.)

Divide your dough into 8 balls of equal size, cover them, and

let them rest again for about 20 minutes. Avoid letting them

touch, if you don't want them to stick together.

Dust your work surface with flour. Working one at a time, remove

each piece of dough and pat it into a 5-inch circle. With a

rolling pin, roll out the tortilla, working from the center out,

until you have a 7- or 8-inch tortilla a little less than 1/4

inch thick. Transfer the tortilla to a hot, dry skillet or

griddle. It will begin to blister. Let it cook for 30 seconds,

turn it, and let the other side cook for 30 seconds. Remove the

tortilla, place it in a napkin-lined basket and cover with

aluminum foil. Repeat for the remaining tortillas.

Although flour tortillas, like corn tortillas, are best if eaten

right after they are made, these tortillas will freeze well.

Wrap them tightly in plastic, and they will keep, frozen, for

several weeks. To serve tortillas that have been frozen, let

them thaw and come to room temperature, then wrap them in

aluminum foil and heat them in a warm oven. Microwaving tends to

toughen them.

 

Here are some tips as to technique:

Do not use bread flour. You want flour with a low gluten

content.

You don't want to over-flour your work surface, but you don't

want your rolled-out tortilla sticking to it either. I found

that the dough adhered less to an unvarnished wood surface (like

an old cutting board) than any other surface I tried.

A flat dough scraper, known in baking parlance as a "bench

knife", is very efficient in removing the rolled-out tortilla

from the work surface.

When rolling out tortillas, dust your rolling pin with flour,

and don't be afraid to apply pressure. Flour tortilla dough is

pretty sturdy; but not to the point of rerolling. You don't want

tough tortillas.

The Border Cookbook recommends the use of a tortilla roller

(similar to a short piece of broomstick), rather than a rolling

pin.

Rolling out tortillas in perfect circles is harder than it

sounds; the dough wants to draw up. So if perfectly circular

shapes are important, you can trim away the excess with a sharp

knife.

Once again, I believe a cast-iron skillet or griddle is

practically indispensable for making any kind of tortilla. A dry

cast-iron utensil, unlike most other materials, can take high

temperatures over a sustained period of time without being

adversely affected, although you may have to do a reseasoning

afterwards Once you get a rhythm going, you can roll out

a tortilla, put it on to cook and, while it cooks, roll out your

next tortilla.

Seems like an arduous process but, with this method, I could

produce 8 tortillas in about 10 action-packed minutes. Be sure

to rewrap your fresh tortillas each time you add another to the

stack.

If you like, you can substitute one cup of whole wheat flour for

one cup of the all-purpose flour.

 

My personal preference is for plain tortillas but, if desired,

you can spice up this recipe by adding

A tablespoon of chopped fresh herbs (like oregano or rosemary)

A teaspoon or so of dried herbs

Freshly ground black pepper

A tablespoon of minced jalapeƱos

A little garlic powder (or substitute garlic salt for the salt)

If you choose to experiment with seasonings, mix dry spices with

the flour mixture and fresh or "wet" seasonings with the milk.

 

My results with the above recipe were outstanding -- chewy,

delicious, irresistible.

My experience with the Sonoran variety, however, was less than

spectacular.

 

Sonoran cooks have turned tortilla making practically into an

art form.

Their tortillas are large (some are pizza-sized), thin and

delicate. I followed this fairly standard recipe:

 

Authentic Mexican kitchen items Sonoran Flour Tortillas

 

2 cups bread flour

1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon vegetable shortening

3/4 cup warm water

 

Mix the flour and salt in a large mixing bowl. Mix in the

shortening using a fork, a pastry blender or your fingertips.

Gradually add the water, working it in until you have a sticky

dough. Turn out the dough onto a floured work surface and knead

for 2 or 3 minutes.

Allow the dough to rest, covered, for 15 minutes. Then divide it

into 6 or 8 balls of equal size, cover, and allow to rest for 45

minutes to an hour.

Roll each ball of dough, between sheets of waxed paper, as

thinly as possible (between 1/16 to 1/8 thick) into a circle.

Remove the waxed paper from one side of the tortilla, then,

carefully, from the other side. Transfer the tortilla to a hot,

dry skillet or griddle. Cook for 10 seconds, turn it, and cook

for 10 more seconds, then turn again for 10 more seconds per

side. Remove the tortilla, place it in a napkin-lined basket and

cover with aluminum foil. Repeat for the remaining tortillas.

Making the dough was easy. Making the tortillas was not. My

equipment, unlike my skills, was right. Rolling the tortillas

into nice circles between sheets of waxed paper was easier than

I expected, but my optimism was short-lived. I found that the

waxed paper on the first side comes away more easily if you tear

it off in one swift motion but, no matter what I tried, I could

not manage to coax the remaining waxed paper off the other side

without mangling the tortilla or without the little demon

drawing up to the size of a sand dollar. Curse that high-gluten

flour anyway.

I cooked them, anyway. But, since the thickness of the tortillas

wasn't uniform, they didn't cook up very nicely. I consoled

myself by eating one of my Chewy Tortillas with butter and

salsa, and decided to share my failure with you readers.

I began this article by stating that I was no expert at making

flour tortillas. I'm still not, but I plan to become one, as far

as the Chewy Tortillas are concerned. Not only do they

compliment Tex-Mex and Southwestern foods, but they make a

terrific substitution for bread anytime. The next time I want to

make burritos, I'll do what I've always done -- I'll get my thin

tortillas at the supermarket.



Sugar Syl Says:
The kindness you spread today
 will be gathered up and returned to you tomorrow.

Faith is the strength by which a shattered world shall emerge into the light.

Helen Keller

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