APPLE-TARRAGON GRANITA
from Peristyle Restaurant
Peristyle, one of my favorite restaurants back home, was founded by
Chef-owner John Neal, who unfortuately passed away in 1995. His former
sous-chef Anne Kearney took over the restaurant, and while keeping his
spirit and creativity alive, has made the restaurant her very own. I
recently read in the Times-Picayune that the last of Chef Neal's own
dishes had finally been taken off the menu, with Peristyle's current
menu being entirely the work of Chef Kearney. I don't think this dish is
still on the menu, but we offer it here in memory of Chef Neal, one of
New Orleans' truly great culinary artists.
[UPDATE, 2004: Sadly, Chef Kearney's health forced her to sell
Peristyle, which is now run by Chef Gene Wolfe. I understand a few of
Anne Kearney's dishes remain, and I haven't had a chance to go back, but
from what I've heard it's a mostly different menu now.]
The very best apple juice to use for this granita/sorbet is
Martinelli's, or any other apple juice similar to that one -- 100% pure
apple juice from fresh apples, no concentrates, no sweeteners, no
additives.
1 quart clear apple juice (unfiltered apple juice makes for a cloudy
granita)
1 ounce fresh tarragon
Simple syrup (Equal parts sugar and water, boiled for approximately two
minutes and allowed to cool. Make a quart or two and keep it on hand if
you're going to make sorbets or granitas often.)
In a blender, puree apple juice and tarragon until tarragon is
completely blended. Pour blended juice in deep sided container and place
egg (in shell) in liquid. Begin pouring simple syrup in juice until egg
floats to the top and the top is exposed about the size of a nickel.
(This is called the egg test and will ensure the right amount of sugar
for taste and proper freezing.)
Pour juice in shallow container and freeze overnight. When ready to
serve, scrape granita with fork and scoop with an ice cream scoop.
Alternately, you may pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze
into sorbet. Makes a delightful and elegant summer dessert.
Few are those who see with their own eyes and feel with their own
hearts.
*Angelique*
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