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From: Christopher Kimball
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Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 9:31 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Letter from Vermont - August 30, 2008








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>From the desk of Christopher Kimball
 
<http://link.ixs1.net/s/lt?id=h5899070&si=c147650674&pc=82001&ei=p243591
> Cook's Country Cookbook & DVD Set
Slide
<http://link.ixs1.net/s/lt?id=85899071&si=c147650674&pc=i2002&ei=p243591
> Show of Old Home Day



Dear Friend of America's Test Kitchen,

Adrienne was just inducted as a member of the Grange in a secret
ceremony that she is "not at liberty" to discuss, but I did learn that
the Grange (their motto is "Patrons of Husbandry") was founded after the
Civil War to organize farmers who were being threatened by the railroad
monopolies. Hence, I suppose, the secrecy. Today they still have 300,000
members nationwide. 

Old Home Day parade had perfect weather this year. All the fire
departments turned out from neighboring towns. The theme was "Mardi
Gras," and if the floats were not quite as fanciful as those in New
Orleans, the enthusiasm was high. (You can see
<http://link.ixs1.net/s/lt?id=85899071&si=c147650674&pc=92003&ei=p243591
> a slideshow of the parade.) Afterwards, there was a carnival and I
paid $1 for three softballs to try and "Dunk the Dope." The third
softball hit the mark and the "dope" got dunked!

Nancy Tschorn, our local Justice of the Peace, was telling us about the
house just down the road that she and Doug live in. It had been owned by
Spittin' Pete, who made a habit of taking discarded construction
materials from all over town. He was frequently seen wearing a long,
black slicker, headed home with a sheet of plywood on his back. In fact,
Nancy told us that her house was finished inside with nothing but
dark-stained plywood shellacked to a high finish. But it is one of the
prettiest little spots in town - a small, authentic Vermont homestead.

Bears and more bears. Caroline, our 18-year-old, was picking blueberries
on the mountain when she saw a bear cub headed her way. She immediately
sat down, hidden by the bushes, and then, sure enough, the mother bear
showed up. She and the mother bear stared at each other for five minutes
and then each went their own way. A few days later, Adrienne and I were
driving back home around 11 p.m. and almost ran into a black bear just a
quarter mile from our farm. He lumbered off slowly into the woods. Last
weekend, we were out on the horses and came across a wild turkey that,
as a friend commented, was "the size of an emu." Living in Vermont is
getting to be like an episode of "Wild Kingdom."

I have spent a lot of time in old barns and with old cookbooks, and my
interest is not merely historical. There are plenty of country antiques
that still make sense today: the White Mountain ice cream freezer
(available back in the 19th century), the hand-cranked seeder, the
wall-mounted ice crusher, the jar-lifter used in canning, and the
man-powered harrow with the large metal wheel. And I have fond memories
of our party-line phone from the 1950s, anything pulled by a horse
including a corn binder and a sickle bar mower, and the small bells
attached to domesticated turkeys.

In the kitchen, my appetite for old or regional American recipes is no
less deep. But separating the wheat from the chaff is heavy lifting. I
can look at an old silage chopper and realize that one is likely to lose
an arm using it, but when it comes to a recipe for Tres Leches Cake,
24-Hour Picnic Salad, or Creole Fried Chicken, how is one to know if it
is a keeper without actually making it? There's the rub. The American
culinary repertoire is replete with lost, regional, family, heirloom and
classic recipes, but one has to ask, "Do they work?" And I don't just
mean do they turn out OK. I mean, "Do they make sense in a modern
kitchen in the early part of the 21st century?"

Hence our new cookbook project, The Cook's Country Cookbook, based on
the work done in the magazine and, now, the public television show of
the same name. We do our best to seek out the rare and the common, the
regional and the national, the personal and the classic and then find
those that add up to a collection of recipes that truly expresses the
genius, the fun, the enthusiasm, and the subversive practicality of the
American table. (Anything that appears merely practical but then turns
out to be immense fun is oddly subversive.) The next step is as
important. Put these recipes through an extensive test kitchen process
to make sure that they really work, the first time and every time.

I love this book since it speaks to my deep love of the American table -
frugal, fun, friendly, and deeply satisfying. So here's the offer. You
can have this book PLUS a full set of DVDs of the first season of our
new television show, Cook's Country, for only $29.95. (That's even less
that the $34.95 retail price of the book.) You will get great recipes -
Strawberry Poke Cake, Firecracker Chicken, Loaded Baked Potato Soup,
Smokehouse Burgers, Tennessee Whiskey Pork Chops, and Blackout Cake to
name just a few - as well as the opportunity to see Bridget, Julia, and
me make many of them on the show (along with Adam testing equipment and
Jack handling the taste tests). So go on and reserve
<http://link.ixs1.net/s/lt?id=h5899070&si=c147650674&pc=j2004&ei=p243591
> your copy today.

The corn has been terrific this year although we have had so much rain
that haying is almost impossible - I heard of one place that is selling
bales at a whopping $10 each. But our son, Charlie, has both of his corn
stands up and running (although someone has been "borrowing" money from
one of the jars) and we are steaming new potatoes almost every night
from the garden. Our own Pig Roast is coming up at the end of the month
and we start band practice (we call ourselves Shady Grove) next week for
the event. Two pigs (not ours) have been ordered, and we expect around
200 neighbors. 

I leave you with the following story. Heber Brown's son, Alfred, had got
Ira's daughter into a bit of trouble. The fact was that she was in a
family way. So, Ira went to talk to Heber about it.

As it happened, Heber wasn't there so Ira spoke to the hired girl
instead. She tried to be helpful.

"I know Heber gets $25 for the bull," she explained. "I don't know what
he gets for Alfred."

Enjoy the last days of summer.

Christopher Kimball
Founder and Editor
America's Test Kitchen







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