Another thing that a lot of people are not aware of: Often times when you
modify an alternate to a higher max current capacity, you loose the bottom end
charge at low speeds. In other words, in idle you are not charging or might
even be slightly dis-charging with a modified alternater while a stock
alternater likely will charge at engine idle.
"Mark Holman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Some Year production vechicles I noted for Example 1984 Ford Tempo had a 40
> Amp Alternator, whereas a 1994 Dodge Shadow has near 80 Amp or better,
thing
> is all alternators OEM are different, unless someone can purchase a higher
> amp rating alternator or maybe consult one of those places that sells Auto
> Stereos, then you are looking at maybe modifying the guts to say 100 Amp or
> Bigger, thing is those " Trucker Alternators " are avg. 110 Amps. I used to
> work @ a KW dealership Lecce Neville makes them especially runninng
Illeagle
> Amplifiers, and other current drawing devices.
>
> Also another sugguestion, Buy the Biggest Capacity Battery in CCA ( Cold
> Cranking Amps ) what you may have down South presumeable is different up
> here in Michigan where we see 0 degrees or lower and it makes a world of
> difference if you buy a recycled boneyard battery for 25 bucks vs. a
Premium
> Gold Battery will start in Minus 45 Degrees Below Zero at 3:00 Am. !
>
> Next thought , all those ground connections may be corroded or rusted, some
> wire brush, sand paper or Schotch brite pad may make the world of
difference
> I had coorosion on a Positive and Negative terminals and having a top post
> Dodge I had no start, after a Ham freind came by we were back on the road.
>
> my experience to help anyone with mobile gear.
>
>
> Mark A. Holman, CRO, AB8RU
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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