----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 8:51
PM
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Still
after
First get a stove pipe crimping tool, and a stack of big coffee
cans.cut the rim off one end and use the crimpier to prep the edge cut the
bottom out of the next can and rim as above. stick the crimped edge into the
bottom of the next can, check for fit. do this till you have a stack taller
than 54".
Make
four of them. wire wheel the joint to prep it for soldering. Assemble
the stack of cans, use three pop rivets around each seam to hold it till
soldered. Then get your propane torch and plumbing solder, sweat the joints.
Oh yes, in the third can from the bottom, mount a disk of plexi-glass with a
9/16th hole in the middle. This will steady the tuning rod later.
To
make the top of the can use 3/8ths or 1/4 inch aluminum plate. Fit it flush
with the top of the can. drill and tap or use self taping 8-32 screws to hold
the top around the top.
Now
that you have this complete let's get some plumbing done. Get 2 each 8ft
sections of 1/2 and 3/4 copper pipe. 4 1/2 copper pipe caps 4 4ft sections of
5/16ths all thread rod with a bag of nuts to fit., 4 3/4 pipe to 3/4 treaded
copper fitting. four 3/4 threaded pipe caps.
By
now you should be getting a picture of this. cut the pipe in half so you have
4ft sections. take one end of the 3/4 pipe and cut small long triangles around
the end. you with squeeze this to make it like fingers down to the 1/2 size
pipe to slide through. take a 1/2 pipe cap and drill it to let the all thread
through. take two nuts and secure the all thread to the cap. solder this to
the end of the 1/2 pipe. now solder the threaded fitting to the top of the 3/4
pipe that you made the fingers on the opposite end. Feed the 1/2 pipe with all
thread into the top of the 3/4 pipe. gently push it through the fingers you
made. Test this for good even firm contact. I used so no ox here just before I
did the finial tune. Take your top plate and drill a hole to accept the
threaded top of the pipe. Drill and tap the 3/4 pipe cape in the center top to
take the all thread. put this on and secure to the top using spacers as needed
to secure the top to the pipe securely. Get some nice knobs at a swap meet and
you now have a basic cavity.
There are many ways to make the pickups. I made my cans pass/notch and
used a so239 panel mount tuning caps out of the finals of a RCA car phone. and
the loops were made from left over 1/2 pipe. I flattened it and sanded the
sides to separate it into two flat peaces. We made the loops 2 3/4 inches long
or 5 and 3/4 memory fades. try it and see what works it is cheep to try. We
had to tack some silver mica caps across the tuning cap to get the notch where
we needed it.
I
have a set of these on the 52.6 -500 repeater in Bakersfield California. it is
a 100 watt micor base running at 75 watts with a pre-amp. It has been in
service for about 16 years.
This
is not meant to be complete instructions to build a duplexer. It is just meant
to get you a usable platform to experiment with. with good construction skills
and test equipment it is very easy to make 6 meter duplexers. You can take
this basic setup and replace components and materials based on your skills and
availability.
Lowband is a fun world to play in. Don't let folks tell you you can't
do it or it wont work. IT will, it does and you can.
Kevin King SCSA BSCIS
ARS KC6OVD
GMRS KAG0378
EIEIO 2722
Acworth Georgia
Hi Kevin
please tell me more. Diagrams etc
73
Steve
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2005 2:45
AM
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Still
after
Try a set of coffee can duplexers. 20 bucks of plumbing hardware
and bingo....
Kevin King SCSA BSCIS
ARS KC6OV
GMRS KAG0378
EIEIO 2722
Acworth Georgia
Hi
Iam still after a 6mtr heliax duplexer. Iam
in Liverpool UK
So if any can or knows somebody who could
make one, please email me direct.
I have been told that the heliax ones can
be troublesome
but I cant afford 1200 UKP for a
commercialy made one.
73
Steve M1SWB
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