Paul,
Thank you very much for the very enlighting information, it gives me 
a place to start.  I plan on trying to get the hardware/software 
working here at my house. If I'm sucessful I will try to coordinate a 
frequency pair through the local club. If all that works I'll start 
looking for an elevated site, since I'm in western washington It 
shouldn't be to hard to find a place that is fairly quiet. Again 
thanks for the Information.

Scott
N7ANY

--- In [email protected], Paul Kelley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
> I haven't seen any replies to this yet so I'll take a stab 
> at explaining the basics.  (Hey guys, this sort of thing is 
> a FAQ, obviously... maybe we need a good basic "Repeater 
> Building 101" article for RBTIP?  If there is one, I 
> haven't found it.  I am aware of the "What's a Repeater" 
> article but that seems to be aimed more at repeater USERS 
> and is a bit too basic for the novice builder, IMHO.  Just 
> curious / asking....)
> 
> Scott, I gather you are thinking of using both radios... one 
> as a receiver and one as a transmitter.  That will work, 
> but with those radios I think another option is to use just 
> one of them.  Take out the receiver and transmitter, mount 
> them in two separate metal boxes (for shielding).  
> Preferably all wires coming out of each box would by via 
> feedthrough capacitors to filter any stray RF (except the 
> coax of course).  I will leave it at that since I have not 
> built a repeater from those rigs myself.
> 
> You will probably want to add a tone decoder to the 
> receiver.  I know I'll open a can of worms with this, but I 
> pretty much subscribe to the belief that most, if not all 
> repeaters these days should use tone access... not just 
> carrier squelch.  There's just soooooo much RF out 
> there.... in and out of band.
> 
> You will need a repeater controller.  This could be very 
> basic, providing ID, timeout timer, and of course keying 
> the transmitter whenever the receiver goes active.  Or it 
> could have many other features like fancy courtesy beeps, 
> voice ID, DTMF control of repeater functions, etc. etc.  I 
> would suggest you check out the repeater controller 
> suppliers listed on this page to see what they have to 
> offer.  That may give you a better idea what you want...
> 
> http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/supplyindex.html
> 
> The controller, at its most basic level, takes audio and 
> carrier / tone detect from the receiver and supplies audio 
> and PTT to the transmitter as needed.
> 
> If you want to run on a single antenna (repeater transmits 
> and receives on the same antenna) you will need a duplexer.  
> This is an expensive component.  Its function is to block 
> the transmitter carrier from entering the receiver and 
> either damaging it or overloading it so that it can't hear 
> what it is supposed to be hearing... and also to keep noise 
> generated by the transmitter (which spreads out around the 
> carrier and some of it will fall on the repeater receive 
> frequency) from degrading receive performance.
> 
> If you have enough space you can run on two antennas without 
> a duplexer.  Since I haven't built a 222 repeater this is a 
> guess, but I'll take a stab in the dark and say perhaps 50 
> feet of vertical separation between antennas or 200 feet 
> horizontal separation.  Perhaps someone with 222 experience 
> will offer to correct me on this.  Vertical separation is 
> more effective because most repeater / base station 
> antennas are designed to radiate best toward the horizon 
> and have nulls in the up / down directions.  Vertically 
> spaced antennas are mounted in each other's null, thus 
> increasing isolation between them... whereas horizontally 
> spaced antennas are in each other's maximum radiation lobe.  
> One difficulty with two antennas is trying to match receive 
> and transmit coverage... especially if one antenna is 
> mounted above the tower and one is side mounted.
> 
> Antennas can be chosen to suit your requirements (where do 
> you have to mount them and what coverage do you need?) but 
> there are a few things to watch out for.  It is desirable 
> to use an antenna that is rugged enough to survive 
> conditions at your repeater site.  Wind and ice factors 
> vary with location, tower height, height of hill / 
> mountain, etc.  Also be aware that some "ham grade" 
> antennas may be noisy in duplex service (single antenna 
> repeater).
> 
> All interconnecting cables on the repeater should be good 
> quality double shielded cable.  I like RG-214 but RG-400 is 
> suitable for short runs to interconnect receiver, 
> transmitter, duplexer, etc.  The feedline run to the 
> antenna(s) can be RG-214 if it is very short, otherwise 
> hardline.
> 
> It is important (especially for the single antenna repeater) 
> that all connections and hardware in and around the antenna 
> / tower be tight and not able to move... also free of rust.  
> Loose parts or rusty hardware can cause noise that your 
> duplexer will not be able to keep out of the receiver.
> 
> Where do you plan to put the repeater?  If at a managed site 
> with other repeaters / communications, there may be 
> specific technical requirements you have to meet in order 
> to be allowed at the site.  Some of them may require 
> additional equipment not mentioned here (for example an 
> isolator).
> 
> What did I forget to mention?  Of course there are many fine 
> points I didn't attempt to cover here.
> 
> Paul,  N1BUG
> 
> 
> On Sunday 21 August 2005 02:46 am, n7any_1 wrote:
> > I'm new to building repeaters, I have had a cobra 200
> > since they came out and used it as mobil rig, I have
> > aquired a midland 13-509 and would like to build a 222
> > mhz repeater out of them. Since I know almost nothing of
> > the details of building a repeater any information would
> > be welcome. I am especially interested in a description
> > of the main parts of a simple repeater ie. radios
> > controllers, antennas, duplexers, whatever I will need to
> > put this together. I am also interested any experiences
> > others have had building a repeater from these rigs? 
> > Thanks
> > Scott Frazier
> > N7ANY






 
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