This has been hashed here before, but:
You can use those two-piece N connectors made for 9913 in the same
way - you need a UG-176 adapter made for RG-8X (Mini-8) to collar over
the FSJ-1 and solder it in place - then carefully screw the main section
of the 9913-N connector onto the adapter - solder the center pin (you
may have to dress the center conductor to mate into the pin) and screw
the outer case onto the connector.
Makes for another inexpensive way to terminate this style of cable.
At 07:45 PM 12/10/05 -0000, you wrote:
>
>Well, I made an interesting discovery today.
>
>My local hobby store carries K+S hobby metal. Their 9/16 tubing makes
>almost an exact collett for taking up the space between the FSJ1-50 and
>the LMR-400 crimp style N connectors. A 3' piece cost me almost $4 with
>tax.
>
>So, I cleaned the tubing with a file, tinned it, and I cut an inch of
>tinned tubing.
>Then I prepped the FSJ by stripping back about an inch and a quarter of
>the jacket, tinning the shield over the exposed area, and making the
>center conductor stick out about 1/8". I filed down the solder since
>the FSJ is a friction fit into the brass tubing.
>
>I soldered the pin to the center conductor. It's a bit loose, but it's
>workable.
>
>Then I soldered the brass tubing into the N connector, easily done.
>
>Then I inserted the prepped FSJ cable into the brass tubing, and just
>flowed the solder in the collett.
>
>Now add a piece of heat-shrink and you have a N connector on the end of
>FSJ1-50, for about the price of a PL-259.
>
>I think maybe it would be a good idea to add another piece of larger
>tubing on the outside of the connector sleeve for strain releif, but I
>don't think it's strictly needed.
>
>So, now I am not so worried about obtaining those connectors.
>But by replying to my own email in thread, perhaps someone else will
>find this when they need it.
>
>If anyone's interested, I can do some pix for the RB site.
>
>KC6ETE clear!
>
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>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
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- Adam -
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