Hi Jim,
There was a debate about the reverse being "a
true Motorola type Reverse-Burst". It only seemed
to matter if you were running the true reverse
burst decoder with the reed stall Motorola
parameters values.
Never mattered to me much... the goal was to
reduce or elminate the users tx un-key static
crash.
I got tired of fighting different reverse phase
formal formats for so many different radios &
receivers.
Extending out the rptr tx hang time without a
sub tone has been a "poor mans" way to deal with
no reverse burst function. I put in one of the
original comm spec RB-1 modules (diagram avail
on the RB web site) and some radio decoders liked
it... some didn't. So I added the extended no
sub tone time and everyone is for the most part
happy.
I use the molex jack on the back for external
controllers and tone panels... the hook-up is different
for each. As a simple ID'er, I've used the Autocode
module many times. It's cheap and an easy board
to add... no other parts are required other than
the molex plug & pins.
The first time you do any tkr repeater connection...
you quickly learn to scratch your head in wonder.
cheers,
skipp
> "Jim B." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> skipp025 wrote:
>
> > The factory repeater board doesn't generate true
> > reverse burst. Like other mfgrs did... the tone is
> > often shut off before the transmitter drops and the
> > detector tries to close the audio of before the tx
> > drops.
>
> Hmmm-all the ones we had at the shop I used to work
> at did true RB. I could see the phase shift in the
> lissajous (sp?) on the service monitor...the only
> problem I ever ran into was that the time delay they
> used was a bit short for some radios. Same problem
> with the mobiles of that vintage (early 90's).
>
> Yes, they make GREAT ham repeaters, with only the
> need to add a simple ID'er.
>
> All of the external controller mods I did were done
> at the accessory jack on the back. And they were
> always done in such a way that you could just unplug
> the cable from the back, hit the button on the front,
> and run local. Worst case (with tone panels), I would
> have to open the top and plug the CTCSS EEPROM back
> in. (I would glue a piece of anti-stat foam on the
> chassis next to the board and stick the chip there,
> programmed up and ready to go.
> Jim Barbour
> WD8CHL
>
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