>
>
>If the tunable stub is connectorized, then just add a 90 degree
>connector in line to make it a bit longer.  
>  
>

No connectors on the tuning stub.  The coupling loop is built into the 
stub and it extends at a right angle from the loop insert.  A single N 
connector opposite the tuning stub couples to the harness. I am not sure 
if the center conductor inside the notch tube will unscrew from the 
connector/loop assembly.  It looks like it is soldered to the loop and 
connector.

>It depends on the version of the old stub Q202 duplexer you have.
>
>Is it side mounted or top mounted loops and are there 4 or 8 pieces of
>coax being used? Is the harness connectorized with separate Ts or is
>it one assembly? The coax lengths should be a little longer but I
>think 2" is too much if I remember correctly.  You should still be
>able to make it work with that cable harness.
>  
>

The harness is made up of 8 individual cables with all cables the same 
length except for one that couples from the junction of the antenna 
output cable and the receiver connection.  (transmitter connection is 
also longer).  I have tried extending the cables with an elbow connector 
on each of the cavities that won't tune with no change in the tuning 
characteristics.

>A good working stub Q202 is better than a new Q202 with capacitor loops.
>
>Harold, VA3HF
>--- In [email protected], Burt Lang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>  
>
>>>
>>> What you are experiencing is the symptioms of insufficient capacity to 
>>> pull the notch down low enough on the low pass side.  The capacity
>>    
>>
>range 
>  
>
>>> of those "tuning stubs" is determined by the length of the center rod 
>>> inside the plastic stub. They are 3/16 (I think) diameter brass rod
>>    
>>
>with 
>  
>
>>> a threaded end. Sinclair had several lengths available, the longest one 
>>> being about 6in long. There is probably nobody left at Sinclair that 
>>> even remembers that part as that design dates back to the 1950s or 60s 
>>> and was superseded by the Johanson trimmer design in the late 1960s.
>>    
>>
>You 
>  
>
>> should be able to get a local machinist to make you a longer one using 
>> the one you have as an example.
>> 
>> Burt VE2BMQ>>>
>


Thanks for the inputs -

73 - Jim - W5ZIT




 
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