I've never crimped, always soldered. The assembly instructions provided by 
Anderson give you your choice of either method.

Chuck
WB2EDV



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric Lemmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 12:39 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Anderson PowerPole Connectors


>I suspect that part of the problem seen by a few PowerPole users is that 
>the
> wrong tool was used to crimp the terminals.  The correct tool should be
> intended for non-insulated terminals, which rules out those made for
> insulated lugs, as well as Vise-Grips and Channel-Lock pliers.  Both 
> Thomas
> & Betts and Gardner-Bender make the correct tools.  I personally like the
> T&B WT111M Crimping Tool, shown on page J92 of the Thomas & Betts catalog
> here:
>
> <www-public.tnb.com/contractor/docs/catamount.pdf>
>
> The PowerPole terminal lug must be crimped with a tool that indents the 
> body
> of the terminal without altering the outside diameter or shape.  I have 
> seen
> a lot of these terminals so badly deformed that they could not be fully
> inserted into the PowerPole insulator shell; it's not surprising that poor
> contact results.
>
> I'd like to pass along a tip:  The next time you buy a bag of PowerPole
> connectors, take the time to cement the red and black insulators into 
> pairs,
> using a slow-setting cyanoacrylate glue.  Loctite "Goof Proof" Super Glue 
> is
> a good choice, since it stays liquid long enough to get the two halves of
> the connector aligned.  When I have connector bodies prepared in advance, 
> it
> takes just seconds to make up a new power cord using #10 AWG red/black
> primary wire from a spool.
>
> I have been using the 30-ampere Anderson PowerPole connectors for many
> years, and have never had any problems with them.
>
> 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fred Flowers
> Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 8:42 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Power-Pole connectors NOT for power
>
> What is the problem? The directions say, "Push in until they click". How
> hard is that? The little ones go together just like the big ones. Anybody
> with one eye and half sense can do it. They are the greatest thing to come
> along since caned beer. I use West Mountain rig runners in my truck, in 
> the
> shack, & in my travel trailer. I've never had any problem.
>
> Fred N4GER
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected]
> <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:[email protected]
> <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Paul Metzger
> Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 10:31 AM
> To: [email protected]
> <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Power-Pole connectors NOT for power
>
> I second that.
>
> I myself have found these little power pole connectors (which are
> recommended by emergency groups) to be a bit too delicate for me. And
> if improperly built, will have little or almost no contact tension at
> all. Honestly I was a little shocked when I started seeing these
> little buggers marketed for emergency amateur radio purposes. The
> bright side I see in that is everyone can connect with minimal fuss.
> But if the connectors were improperly built, I wouldn't be surprised
> to see a few of these tapped up during a real disaster in order to
> keep them from falling out of their other mating half.
>
> For years, I myself have utilized the larger SB 50A Anderson
> connectors on my primary Amateur Radio (TS-450 / IC-910) and Solar
> system at my home QTH. Now try and pull those babies apart. Talk
> about contact tension. You can't accidently tug on you power harness
> and pull these apart.
>
> One more thing, my jaw dropped when I had built my K2-100W. It uses a
> chassis mount variant of the tiny power pole connectors out from the
> rear of the unit.
>
> Well, just my two cents.
>
> Paul Metzger
> K6EH
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> -- 
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> 3:27 PM
>
> 

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