Don't know if I have a Service Manual for the 3530, but I probably have a copy of the diagram. I'm moving my shop files around this weekend and after things settle down I'll look to see what I have for the 3530 and scan it into pdf for everyone (free copies).
You guys need to buy a can of Caig Labs DeOxit and/or ProGold G5 Spray and try it on your crunchy pots. It's the only product that I've found actually works if there's any chance of reconditioning the pot operation. Trust me on this one... it's some of the best money you can spend on a spray (get the spray can) contact restoration compound (liquid). If it works for you... fan'tas'toe If it doesn't fix the problem pot you will find it helps most pots work mucho betta' chow for now skipp cheers, skipp > "Jeff DePolo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Skipp sed: > > > I've got a few Kenwood TM-331 radios and they work pretty good for > > what they are. I also have and love my original 3530 Kenwood but it's > > long out of production. > > I have a 3530 too, and it's a great radio but mine has a problem with the > squelch. Anyone happen to have a service manual they'd loan? > > For aux link use, probably the cheapest way to go is do a Mastr II PLL > conversion and skip the PA (but do use a LPF or at the very least a BP > cavity, give a hoot, don't pollute). A hundred mW or so is often enough for > line-of-sight paths. Quick math says 30 miles has about 113 dB path loss on > 222 MHz, so 100 mW (+20 dBm) with 5 element yagis (8 dBd) on each end should > give you -77 dBm (about 30 uV) ignoring feedline loss, plenty of oomph. > > --- Jeff >
