For the GE units I have seen, the battery leads came out the large hole in the 
back of the supply where the DC leads to the fuse mounted on the rear panel 
emerge.  The Repeater-Builder site has the battery backup mod documentation and 
I downloaded it there.  I can look it up if you can't find it.

We had a lead inside a GE supply come loose after we hauled it across the 
country in a pickup, and ran the repeater off a 20 amp Astron with no problem.  
It was a 30 watt UHF unit, so the current draw was not too high.  One of the 
larger Astron supplies should run the high power units OK.  We repaired the GE 
supply and it is still in service.

There is a Molex plug on the back of the supply, and you have to connect your 
supply to both the wires in the plug and the two leads to the final amp.  The 
GE supply has a little extra filtering on the low current output and provides a 
low value fuse in that line.  You would be wise to provide a 5 amp fuse in line 
with the low current Molex connector going into the receiver and exciter area 
when using a non-GE supply.

If the repeater is located in an area where there are people, the buzz from the 
ferro-resonant transformer will become annoying after a while.  And the 
effeciency of the GE supply is not as good as an Astron.  But don't go for a 
switching supply if you can help it.  They are prone to have more problems when 
operated 24/7 in repeater service.

73 - Jim  W5ZIT

"Willis M. Hagler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:                             Hello 
Jim
 
 Thank you for the information.   If my GE power supply had the
 modification installed with a relay to switch to battery power then I
 would assume there would be some sort of battery terminals on the
 power supply.  Mine doesn't have anything that looks like that so I'm
 guessing the power supply I have was not built with that mod.
 
 Do you (or anybody else) know if it's possible to modify the power
 supply to add these parts or if anything like this has been done before?
 
 Also I am considering not using the GE power supply at all and using a
 newer one with battery service built in.  This is assuming that the GE
 Master II will run fine off of a regular 13.8v power supply rated for
 sufficient continuous duty current.  If anybody has experience along
 these lines I'd be interested in hearing about what you've done for
 power supply that isn't the original GE one.
 
 Thanks all, this is a great group of people and I enjoy reading this list!
 
 Mark Hagler
 W7WMH Seattle
 
 --- In [email protected], Jim Brown <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
 >
 > Willis, I have run across two different versions of a factory mod to
 apply a backup battery to a Mastr II.  One has a built in charger and
 the other uses an external charger.
 > 
 > The stock GE power supply has a bleeder resistor across the output
 to keep the voltage in check when lightly loaded, and that has to be
 disconnected in battery service.  The relay in the power supply
 changes the source over to the battery when the AC power fails and
 disconnect the bleeder at the same time.  It would quickly discharge
 the battery if it were left connected.
 > 
 > The filter caps are still in the circuit when the battery is
 engaged, so there will be no interruption of service when the AC
 fails.  Not even a glitch on the transmitter if it happened to be keyed.
 > 
 > Here is a link to a recent backup system I installed on a GE Mastr
 II repeater.  It did not have the built in charger, so an outboard
 charger is used.
 > 
 > http://sbarcnm.org/forum/index.php?topic=102.0
 > 
 > 73 - Jim  W5ZIT
 > 
 > "Willis M. Hagler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:                            
 Hello All,
 >  
 >  I have acquired a UHF Mastr II station in great working order.   It's
 >  got what appears to be a 65-watt mobile type PA (approx 2" high
 >  heatsink that sticks out the back) so someday I'd like to upgrade that
 >  to a continuous duty model when I run across one.
 >  
 >  In the mean time I am wondering how to adapt a battery backup system
 >  into this unit.   I've got the original 30 amp (I think) GE power
 >  supply, where the station gets power from the classic Molex-style
 >  connector and the PA gets power through the large fuse on the rear of
 >  the unit.
 >  
 >  What I don't see anywhere back there is any designated place to hook
 >  up a battery circuit.
 >  
 >  I'm pretty sure there are hundreds of these things across the country
 >  in amateur service and undoubtedly many of you have made some battery
 >  system for this very same setup.  If anybody could share how you've
 >  worked in a battery backup and some sort of charging system I'd love
 >  to hear about it.
 >  
 >  Thanks all!!
 >  
 >  Mark Hagler
 >  W7WMH Seattle
 >
 





       

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