Wayne,

That is not exactly true.  An outlet rated at 15 amperes cannot have any
load greater than 12 amperes plugged into it.  An outlet rated at 20 amperes
cannot have any load greater than 16 amperes plugged into it.  This is
clearly stated in Article 210.21(B)(2) of the National Electrical Code.  A
device that actually draws 20 amperes at 120 VAC must be plugged into an
outlet and branch circuit rated at 30 amperes.

When load currents exceed 16 amperes at 120 VAC, it's time to consider a
branch circuit rated at 208 or 240 VAC.  Most repeaters and high-power PAs
have optional connections to enable operation on 208 or 240 VAC.  Keep in
mind that there is no such voltage as "220" although that obsolete figure is
still in common usage.  The nominal single-phase voltage supplied to
residences is 120/240 VAC, while the electrical supply to light commercial,
apartment complexes, and condos is usually 120/208 VAC derived from two
phases of a three-phase distribution system.  I mention this because a
fellow Ham who now lives in a large apartment complex mentioned to me that
his 500 watt rig that worked fine in his former home was not putting out
full power at his new location.  The cause was revealed when he measured his
line-to-line voltage as close to 208 VAC.  His power amplifier was rated for
240 VAC, but was "starving" when fed 87% of its design voltage.  A
commercially-available "boost" transformer was installed to give him a true
240 VAC supply.  Problem solved.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wayne
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 11:01 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

  To properly plug in an item that is a 20 amp draw. etc., one should  
install a 20 amp outlet.
  This can be single or duplex, and is readily spotted (if dual purpose) by

the fact that one side will be flat instead of vertical, or have both  
horizontal and vertical on that side.
  the flat/horizontal is on the neutral side.
  Not to be confused with a similar looking outlet for 250 volts, which has

two flats , and one has vertical as well on the left side, looking at the  
front with the ground hole down.

  Anyway, there are oulets made for 20 or more amps, which are different  
than the 15 amp common outlets.

local ordinances can often be more stringent than even the NEC codes.

  of course, if you are running a high power repeater, you would probably  
wish to put it on a circuit breaker by itself.
  But ordinary house wiring normally has several outlets wired in series  
 from one breaker, and is NEC approved that way.
  Shop and Industrial become another matter, ha ha ha...

  Wayne WA2YNE



On Sun, 06 Jul 2008 20:08:33 -0500, Bruce Bagwell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  
wrote:

> I figured that was A local code, not NEC.  The only reason I can think  
> of for that requirement is the ampacity of the 12 or 14 ga wires.  While  
> we all know, in actual use, 2 or more outlets strung along will not all  
> have 15 amp or higher loads in EACH outlet. However, theoretically, each  
> outlet could have A 20 amp load plugged into it.That is probably why  
> some pencil pusher decided each outlet needs its own wire.  (Never mind  
> the fact the breaker would trip regardless of what is plugged into each  
> outlet or the number of wires leading to said outlets, but that's  
> another crazy thread) As for the Breaker Box, I would assume each also  
> has its own breaker. Trying to stuff more than one wire into A breaker  
> would more fun than I care to have.
>
> Bruce
> KE5TPN
>

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