Mathew, I have several of these in service for 440 MHz amateur use. They are the 225 watt UHF version. Most of the control wiring that connects to the unified chassis is similar. I use the station control module and the squelch gate card. This makes use of all of the proper keyed A- paths for the exciter channel element and keying. This configuration will also provide you with the turn on delay that prevents the transmitter from keying before the tube is all warmed up. This is very important for tube life.
I would recommend using the factory station PL encoder and decoder if you have them available. If you decide to use the factory PL boards, make sure the radio is configured for "AND" squelch. You should be able to retune the PA cavity for 2 Meters, but if you are much below 147 MHz with your transmit frequency, you may need to find a low split 138 - 150 MHz solid state PA board for the PA that is used to drive the tube. The only thing I change in these radios is the coax from the output of the PA to the harmonic filter. I use a piece of 3/8" superflex to replace the factory piece of coax, and the tube PA is much happier. We found the factory coax will get warm when the transmitter is keyed for 15 minutes or longer. I have used both the Arcom and Link-Com controllers and they both work fine with these radios. I did not make it to the shop today, but I will take the digital camera and try and get some photos for you tomorrow. Sounds like you are making progress. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9lv" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards > in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station > Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch > card, but was told they were not needed. > > Mathew
