Romanians Return to Late Queen's  <http://www.birn.eu.com/en/74/10/2454/>
Beloved Coast


15 03 2007

Following the trail of their late queen, Romanians are setting their stamp
on Bulgaria's northern seaside.
By Iskra Sotirova in Varna (Balkan Insight, 15 Mar 07)

In March, the royal garden in the Bulgarian seaside town of Balchik starts
blissfully to reawaken. Water fills the cascading pools and meanders between
the budding roses, giant cacti, ancient Ginkgo trees and countless lilies -
just some of the more than 3,000 rare types of flora the Swiss gardener
Jules Jany planted a century ago.

The fairytale park was the inspiration of Queen Marie of Romania, the
British-born royal who spent many days here with her lover in the 1920s,
when the area was part of Romania. Marie died just before the Second World
War. For half a century after the war, when the Communists ruled Romania,
memories of her reign were officially suppressed.

But Romanians have begun rediscovering her old haunts, long after the land
returned to Bulgarian rule. Scores of Romanians have started exploring the
Black Sea coast north of Varna for weekend visits or to invest in holiday
homes. Real estate agencies report a boom in sales of summer homes, which
has accelerated since January when the two neighboring countries joined the
European Union. The growing interest of the Romanians is changing the
region's appearance, as new small restaurants and businesses spring up,
helping once decayed resorts to revive.

The recent development is somewhat surprising, given the historic rivalry
between Romanians and Bulgarians over the southern Dobrudzha, as the region
is known. During the Balkan wars of 1913, when Bulgaria's armies were
fighting Serbs and Greeks in Macedonia, Romania made use of Bulgaria's
military difficulties in the south to invade from the north and occupy the
fertile agricultural lands west of Balchik.

The land remained in Romania's possession until 1940. The occupation left
bitter sentiments among local people. This resentment was further
strengthened during the Cold War. Although Bulgaria and Romania were bound
together for decades by common membership of the Socialist bloc, they were
divided by a number of unresolved cross-border disputes.

When Bulgaria started to develop the Black Sea coast in the 1960s, few
Romanians were among the scores of eastern-bloc tourists. After a decade of
painful economic transition in both states, EU integration has finally
brought the two countries together. Over the last two years, more and more
Romanians have been crossing the Danube for short trips.

In the past hardly any Romanians have been visiting local sea towns. But
this spring, the Bulgarian Riviera near Varna announced Romanians have
booked 400 out of the 1000 beds at the resort for the Easter holidays -
usually a slow season for the Bulgarian seaside.

In 2006, Queen Marie's palace and garden in Balchik was the second most
visited museum in Bulgaria after the National History Museum in Sofia.
Moreover, 70 per cent of the visitors to Balchik were Romanians.

Another attraction is the regular rock concerts held in Kavarna, a town
about 80 kilometres south of the Romanian border. Concerts by bands
including Deep Purple, Scorpions, Glen Hughes and Ronnie James Dio have
lured thousands of Romanians over the last few years.

Many Romanians cross the border to buy good, cheap food, buying large
quantities of cheese especially. Supermarket owners are delighted. "We are
under constant Romanian pressure," laughed Tsonko Tsonev, mayor of Kavarna.
He said the shelves of the town's main food store were often empty as a
result of the foreign shoppers. 

Restaurants are also flourishing. The high season on the northern Black Sea
coast usually ends early in September. But last year the Romanian trade
extended the season until the end of October. Waiters at the Zlatnata Ribka
(Golden Fish) restaurant on the Durankulak lake have had to learn their
menus by heart in Romanian. "They are our only customers in winter," said
one waiter, Petko Petkov. 

Romanians do not only come to eat and shop. There is a growing interest in
real estate, concentrated on the developed resort of Varna and its
surroundings. "Until January 2007 we had Romanian buyers now and then but
since EU membership, the number of deals has rapidly increased," said Daniel
Dimitrov, of Palad estate agency. Dimitrov said that while interest was
dropping amongst the British, the main group of buyers, interest amongst
Romanians was growing.

The local Karavel agency has sold six flats in recent weeks to Romanians for
a total of 360,000 euro. "We want to spend our holidays here," said Stefan
Radu of Bucharest, one of the buyers. He paid 40,000 euro for a two-room
apartment, which he said was half the price he would have paid for a similar
property at home. Radu said he viewed his purchase primarily as an
investment, believing the value of the flat will continue to rise.

"Here you can buy a decent house with a garden for about 30,000 euro," said
Mariana Stoitsa, another Romanian would-be buyer. "For this money you can't
buy a house with land even in a poor Romanian resort like Vama Veche!"

While the boom in Varna is already a fact, real estate agencies aim to lure
new customers to the underdeveloped area north of the town, nearer the
Romanian border. Realtors are already busy marketing sales in a luxurious
complex under construction in the town. "Two-room flats with a view towards
the new marina for 32,000 euro," the advertisements read.

Stoil Ranev, a pensioner from Sofia who moved to Kavarna for a quieter life,
intends to open an estate agency of his own in the town. "It is time for me
to learn some Romanian," he said with a smile.

Iskra Sotirova is a correspondent of the Bulgarian national daily 24 Chasa
in Varna. Balkan Insight is BIRN`s online publication.

Copyrights C 2006 BIRN, Balkan Investigative Reporting Network
 
----------------------------
 
Vali
"Noble blood is an accident of fortune; noble actions are the chief mark of
greatness." (Carlo Goldoni)

"When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know
peace." (Jimi Hendrix)

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