<http://www.archis.org/plain/object.php?object=932&year=&num>
http://www.archis.org/plain/object.php?object=932&year=&num=
 
Ceausescu's Disneyland
Renata Saleci
 
[... <http://www.archis.org/plain/object.php?object=932&year=&num=> ] The
well-known Communist joke begins by asking: 'What is the difference between
an optimist and a pessimist in Soviet Union?' 'A pessimist thinks that
everything is so bad that it can't get worse, while an optimist thinks that
it can.' Nowadays, many Russians and other East Europeans still hold such an
'optimistic' view, since they are confronted with the economic chaos of
early capitalism, which makes their lives even more difficult than it was
under the communist regime. So there are those who feel deep despair and
daydream about the lost times of less freedom but more social security.
[...]

The people's nostalgia for the past poses a variety of theoretical
questions: how is the identity of the subject related to the symbolic order
and which memory of the past does the subject invoke? Since this past never
existed in the way it is now remembered, what is the logic of this memory?
In the case of nostalgia for communism, questions also arise about how the
new regime should deal with the visible monuments of the previous regime
(communist statues, architecture), and what it means to remove them or to
integrate them into the post-socialist ideological universe. But, in order
to answer this last question, it is necessary to understand why these
monuments were built in the first place. In the case of Ceausescu, for
example, the question is: what was the nature of his passionate attachment
to the communist ideals that required the destruction of the country?

The state as a work of art

In the late seventies, Ceausescu began his project of rebuilding the centre
of Bucharest so that architectural reality would properly reflect the
greatness of Romanian communism. Bucharest, which used to be called the
'Little Paris' of the Balkans, suddenly became a huge building site.
Ceausescu demanded the demolition of almost a quarter of the old town centre
with its picturesque streets, old churches, monasteries, hospitals, schools,
etc. In its place, a new socialist administrative centre began to emerge,
comprising a grandiose palace and a broad avenue with neo-baroque fountains
surrounded by neoclassic apartment blocks. The construction proceeded very
rapidly: tens of thousands of labourers and hundreds of architects and
engineers worked day and night on the project. This rebuilding demanded
enormous financial sacrifice and significantly increased the economic
hardship of the Romanian people. At the time of the collapse of Ceausescu's
regime, the project had reached its final stage. The question became: what
should be done with this massive architectural venture? As political debates
about the project became heated, the main dispute centred on the fate of the
palace. Some people insisted that it had to be demolished; others proposed
that it become a museum of communist terror; still others suggested that it
be transformed into a big casino. The new regime decided to complete the
project and to establish the palace as the site of the new parliament and as
an international congress centre. The palace, however, remains one of the
most traumatic remnants of the communist regime. It has a sublime quality -
it is beautiful and horrible at the same time, provoking both admiration and
disgust. But before analysing today's perception of the palace, let us try
to explain what led Ceausescu to create it.

It is common knowledge that Ceausescu, who once enjoyed the support of the
people, in the last years of his rule fell into some kind of psychotic
delirium, into an obsession with his own grandeur. He became a megalomaniac:
a king who believed that he was a king. And his architectural project tried
to materialize this megalomania. One explanation for Ceausescu's obsession
with changing the architecture of Bucharest is that, once when traveling
abroad, he came to realize that he liked neither traditional Western
architectural style, nor socialist architecture. He had found something
close to his ideal in North Korea, where his friend Kim Il Sung began
constructing a new political and architectural centre in Phenian. Romanians
and Koreans soon started competing to see who would build the more
prestigious and grandiose city. But the main difference between the Romanian
and Korean administrative centres is that the latter was constructed on
empty ground, while Romanians had to sacrifice a large part of old
Bucharest. What was the purpose of this sacrifice? Why was it necessary to
demolish old historic buildings, churches, hospitals and schools?

The idea behind this demolition, certainly, was not only to find space for
Ceausescu's architectural exercises. Had Ceausescu simply wanted to find a
place for his 'artistic' creations, he could have easily chosen some vacant
land outside of the city as the site of his dream town. The demolition
should be understood as an essential part of his project. It could even be
said that the destruction of buildings, the erasure of historical memory was
more important than the construction of the new centre. The 'wound'
Ceausescu made in the 'living flesh of the city', as Romanian's tend to
characterize the project, has a special symbolic meaning.

It could be said that Ceausescu's intention was to erase history, but in
this effort he produced the trauma that now invokes the memory of the lost
past. Thus people today recall the 'happy' past, the social security of
socialism, in order to escape the memory of the trauma. This trauma includes
not only Ceausescu's violence and destruction, it also touches on the
passivity that allowed this annihilation to happen. Here again we encounter
the 'crime' of people being too afraid to oppose the regime and the
unconscious feeling of guilt that accompanies this non-action.

Ceausescu's creationism tried to undo the old signifying chain in order to
establish a totally new symbolic organization. By razing the historical
monuments, Ceausescu aimed to wipe out Romanian national identity, the
fantasy structure of the nation that is forged around historic old buildings
and churches, and then to establish his own version of this identity.

How does the present Romanian regime perceive the palace? In a brochure
written for visitors, the palace is first described as 'a 'giant' built
during the 'golden age' of the dictatorial regime and born in the mind of a
man for whom the nation of 'reasonable sizes' did not exist'. The palace is
presented as the second-largest building in the world (after the Pentagon),
but the most prominent because it is the most disputed. This controversy
almost resulted in its annihilation, but: 'Realizing its enormous value, in
fact a Romanian inheritance in danger to be destroyed and robbed, people
began to look the building with less hostility and named it the 'People's
House'.' The rest of the text reads like Ceausescu's promotion material,
with its descriptions of the glory of the palace and what the people
sacrificed for its completion. Thus, we are reminded that this is 'not a
palace from Aladdin's stories, but a real one, showing the true wealth of
Romania: stone, marble and wood from the Romanian mountains and forests. ...
Today, the monumental building stands for the most precious symbol of
democracy in Romania, that is the Parliament, serving the high and noble aim
we have all aspired for: equal and complete representation of the Romanian
people.'

By presenting the palace as a national symbol, the current political elite
has specifically incorporated this traumatic palace into its political
discourse. The symbolic power of the building, supposedly made only from
Romanian materials, is strenghtened by the fact that it was produced through
the enormous hardships of the Romanian people. However, it is essential to
appreciate how the palace has become an actual realization of Ceausescu's
original intention. As a parliament, the People's House is made to stand for
the 'complete representation of the Romanian people.' This all-encompasing
construction could be understood as a final stage of Ceausescu's vision,
which tried to give form to an ideal total society. Thus, when today's
regime claims that it completely represents the people, Ceausescu's dream of
totality is, in some way, realized. However, Ceausescu is not the only
megalomaniac who tried to change reality to fit his ideal. Surprisingly,
many past and present architects tried to do the same, but were limited in
their endeavour by lack of power and resources. Even in the most admired
American contemporary architectural inventions - the shopping malls and
Disneyland - one can find points of comparison with Ceausescu's project.
[... <http://www.archis.org/plain/object.php?object=932&year=&num=> ]
 
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----------------------------
 
Vali
"Noble blood is an accident of fortune; noble actions are the chief mark of
greatness." (Carlo Goldoni)

"When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know
peace." (Jimi Hendrix)

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