http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/19887683/site/newsweek/
 
The World Embraces Gypsy Culture
Living Like Gypsies
 
All over the world, people are embracing the culture of the Roma people
through music, films, festivals and plays.
By Ginanne Brownell and Amber Haq
Newsweek International

July 30, 2007 issue - Summertime and the living is frenzied in Paris's
trendy nightclub neighborhood of Pigalle. Where absinthe-swigging artists,
musicians and cabaret singers once swarmed to watch the can-can girls raise
their skirts at the Moulin Rouge, today hip Parisians groove to the beats of
"Nuits Tziganes"—Gypsy Nights—at the Divan du Monde nightclub. It's close to
midnight on a Thursday and Franco-Italian DJ Tagada, the brains behind the
evening's hot "Balkan Beats" ticket, is spinning the tunes as a rollicking,
largely barefoot crowd swing their hips and clap to the rhythm.

It's not just the Parisians who are going crazy for Gypsy-inspired music.
Across the Atlantic, in New York, similar scenes are taking place at the
Mehanata Bulgarian Bar on the Lower East Side. The club's "Gypsy Mania"
parties make for some of the most raucous nights in town. From London to
Berlin, and Zagreb to the deserts of New Mexico, Gypsy music is this
summer's hottest sound. Even the highbrow and almighty Opéra de Paris
decided to get in on the action last month when it presented Bosnian
director Emir Kusturica's punk opera based on his film "Time of the
Gypsies." "This music urges you to move," says Tagada. "It sits restlessly
between melancholy and joy [awakening] a sensibility in us that is otherwise
asleep."

The buzz goes way beyond music. Interest in all aspects of Gypsy culture has
exploded, with scores of concerts, festivals, films and plays raising
awareness of the people who first migrated from northern India to Europe
more than 1,000 years ago. In June, London's Barbican Centre hosted a
three-week-long festival of Gypsy music and culture, "The 1,000 Year
Journey," with Johnny Depp's favorite band—Romania's Taraf de
Haidouks—headlining one night. Films like Dusan Milic's "Distant Trumpet," a
modern-day "Romeo and Juliet" set in Serbia, and Tony Gatlif's
"Transylvania," in which a young woman travels to Transylvania to track down
her Gypsy-musician lover, are being released across Europe to much hype this
summer. Audiences have also embraced documentaries like "Gypsy Caravan" and
"Guca," a film about the ferocious five-day Gypsy brass-music competition
that draws 500,000 fans to Serbia every August. "We are not far away from
[recognizing] the role that [Roma] culture has played in European culture,"
says musician Goran Bregovic, who wrote the scores for several of
Kusturica's films.

The history of the Romani people— "Gypsy" is now widely taken as a term to
describe their culture—was never written down. But it is believed that they
were originally north Indian mercenaries enslaved during the Muslim
conquests of circa A.D. 1000 and later marched across the Caucasus, ending
up scattered across Central and Eastern Europe. Eventually they became
renowned for their talents in music and dance, entertaining the royal courts
of such monarchs as Catherine the Great. "Given the facts of social history,
performance has provided one of the few areas where Romanies have been able
to make a living in the non-Romani world," says Ian Hancock, the director of
Romani Studies at the University of Texas. "So it made sense to develop and
encourage those skills." But they remained at the bottom of the class
ladder; many were held as slaves. It was only in 1864—a year before
African-American slaves were freed—that Roma slavery was abolished in
Romania.

Because of this parallel history, many see similarities between Gypsy music
and jazz. "Romanies bring an inventiveness and a radical way of thinking
about making music to Europe in the same way that African-Americans, like
Louis Armstrong and Billie Holiday, have done in America," says Garth
Cartwright, author of "Princes Amongst Men: Journey With Gypsy Musicians."
Documentary filmmaker Jasmine Dellal sought to explore history's role in
shaping culture in "Gypsy Caravan," which narrates the musical journey of
five Gypsy bands from Macedonia, India, Spain and Romania, as they tour the
United States. It artfully interweaves scenes from their lives on the road
with poignant snapshots of their personal lives, painting a vivid portrait
of the Romani people. "Be it a Slavic brass oompah band, weeping Romanian
violins or Spanish flamenco, there are common roots [and] a strong sense of
the very real and rich musical space they share," Dellal says. "There is an
emotional thread which goes back a long way in time and geography."


That emotional thread has gained resonance in Western Europe and North
America since the fall of the Berlin wall and the expansion of the European
Union brought lesser-known societies to light. "[Those factors] have led to
a much wider interest in the culture of Europe and the realization that
there are lots of cultures inside it that were maybe never explored before,"
says Louise Doughty, author of the Romani novel "Fires in the Dark," about a
family during World War II. Directors Emir Kusturica and Tony Gatlif are
credited with first introducing Gypsy culture to a wider audience.
Kusturica's "Time of the Gypsies," a story of a young Romani man with
magical powers who is tricked into getting involved in the criminal
underworld, was released in 1989. In 2004, Gatlif, who is part Romani, won
the best-director award at Cannes for "Exiles," a film about Romani
repatriation.

Those films incorporated Gypsy music soundtracks, which helped spark
interest in the genre. The band Taraf de Haidouks, which uses fiddles and
accordions, released its first album in 1991 and has since won an
international reputation; Depp is rumored to be so enamored he flies them to
parties and receptions around the globe. Berlin-based Bosnian DJ Robert Soko
helped introduce "Balkan Beat" music to the European club scene. Earlier
this month the New York-based Gypsy-punk band Gogol Bordello released its
new album "Super Taranta"; recently members of the band joined Madonna
onstage at Live Earth and got the pop superstar to sing partly in Romany. "I
always wanted to get Gypsy music out of the ghetto of the world-music
section," says lead singer Eugene Hutz. "There are whole communities of
skate-punk kids in places like California who have started listening to
groups like Fanfare Ciocarlia and Taraf de Haidouks."

Bregovic is taking the Gypsy-music revolution a step further, combining
traditional Balkan brass rhythms with Slavic folk, jazz improvisation and a
smattering of retro Euro-pop. "Brega," as he is known to his fans, started
playing at 16 in Sarajevo's strip joints, to the fury of his father, who was
a colonel in the Army. "He'd shout, 'You are not going to do that Gypsy
job!' " Bregovic says. "It just goes to show there's always been a link
between being a Gypsy and making music."

Bregovic and his band recently embarked on a Europe-wide tour that will
culminate at Guca—perhaps the most important event on the Gypsy-music
calendar. No wonder two separate films have been made about it. In Milic's
"Distant Trumpet," a Romani brass player bets his lover Juliana's
trumpet-playing Serbian father that if he wins the prestigious "Golden
Trumpet" award at Guca, the star-crossed couple can be together. And the
documentary "Guca" looks at the festival's founders and fans who travel
great distances to drink and dance to the brass music. "When you haven't got
a car, when you haven't got money, when you can't live normally, those five
minutes of trumpet mean a lot," says one reveler. And as the growing legions
of fans attest, they mean a lot even if you've got a car and money.

© 2007 Newsweek, Inc.
 
© 2007 MSNBC.com
 
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