Ok, here is my solution (if anybody wants to know)... and it seems to

<div id="searchengines">content for search engines</div>

var ajaxSupport = (Ajax.getTransport()) ? true : false;
if (ajaxSupport = true) {
        new Element.update('searchengines', '');
        window.setTimeout('Ajax.Update(\'human_page\')', 500);

The "content for search engines" (see <div>-tag above) includes the
content of the start-page (with keywords describing the site etc.) and
static links to sub pages. A search engine "reads" this page, follows
links and does NOT execute the JavaScript off course.

The page (or some content-elements on the page) will be updated
immediately (ok, after 500ms) in a browser with JavaScript by
Ajax.Update(). Further navigation is done by AJAX.

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